Replying to SURFING STORIES ASAP!!!!

i need some surfing stories for this speach i am writing...anything esp. about crashes or breaking ur board or anything, either happened to you or a news article...whatever...thanks a bunch
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'Over time, most people experience life involving love, suffering, compassion and an unspeakable drive for something new...For me there's skiing, nothing more nothing less and it encompasses everything, everyday I'm out there.'
-Pep Fujas-