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ND filters

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ARfive
Posts: 194 - Karma: 280
I'm looking for a filter for day timelapses. what's the best kind of ND filter to get so i can take long exposures for timelapses when it's sunny out? +k for inputs
Jan 28 2012 11:05PM
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Childstar.
Posts: 1947 - Karma: 2,213
ND filers are rated in stops. So you'll want a pretty strong one for timelapses during daylight ... like a -5stops or darker.
Jan 28 2012 11:25PM
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Jeff_Lo
Posts: 5809 - Karma: 263
Might be worth getting a set.  I like the Schneider and Formatt sets.  I personally got a Singah-Ray variable ND filter with multiple stops and VERY little color shift.
Jan 29 2012 12:00AM
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blatt
Posts: 5584 - Karma: 3,097
Im selling a tiffen 77mm .3 ND... just saying


brb bumping that thread
Jan 29 2012 1:57AM
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ARfive
Posts: 194 - Karma: 280
thanks but i'm looking for something a little darker. Anyone have any links to one's they would suggest for the tamron 17-50? thanks

also, i don't think i need a whole set, i think just one would be fine? any input on this?
Jan 29 2012 11:35AM
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[J_Gasper]
Posts: 2983 - Karma: 1,594

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-67mm-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00004ZCFY


or if you want something darker


http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-67mm-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00004ZCFZ


I own the .6 ND filter. I dont think the .9 is necessary. I use this on the beach, sunny days on the hill, and sun timelapse. it all depends, but for a sunny day on hill for me, the correct exposure is f/5.6 100 ISO with shooting a shutter speed of 250. it varies , but thats what im usually around
Jan 29 2012 11:44AM
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ARfive
Posts: 194 - Karma: 280
i'm looking for a filter that i can have my ISo at 100, aperature closed (f22?), and shutter speed more than 1 second during pure daylight. I'll mostly be using for timelapses and not for video. Anyone have any suggestions based on this? Thanks
Jan 29 2012 1:31PM
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RileySnyderPhoto
Posts: 688 - Karma: 1,451
sounds like you should get the variable. or maybe an 8 stop?
Jan 29 2012 1:42PM
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ARfive
Posts: 194 - Karma: 280
i was actually just checking out the variables. anyone know of the best but cheapest option for a 67mm variable nd filter? thanks guys
Jan 29 2012 1:51PM
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SSteezle
Posts: 9300 - Karma: 7,700
threads, i'm actually really looking to get a variable nd filter too and i'm unsure what my best option is
Jan 29 2012 5:12PM
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eheath
Posts: 61648 - Karma: 123,472
Light Craft Workshop Fader ND mark 2. I have one, 77mm, its legit. I think the 67 is like $80 or something, 2-8 stops of light.
Jan 29 2012 5:19PM
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1337
Posts: 31059 - Karma: 29,329
heard nothing but rave reviews about them. Might pick one up myself, or a nice CPL
Jan 29 2012 6:25PM
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ARfive
Posts: 194 - Karma: 280
what about this one. It seems to give me a bigger range to work with. Also it's much cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/67MM-ND-FILTER-ADJUSTABLE-VARIABLE-ND2-ND400-LENS-/350527745039?pt=Camera_Filters&hash=item519d14ec0f#ht_2811wt_1348
Jan 29 2012 6:38PM
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1337
Posts: 31059 - Karma: 29,329
never cheap out on camera glass or filters. No name ebay brands are a no-go, get something recommended and reviewed. otherwise you'll get a sub-par image.
Jan 29 2012 6:43PM
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Jeff_Lo
Posts: 5809 - Karma: 263
Be careful when using Variable ND filters.  Alot of them cause color shifts, even the best ones do slightly.  The general rule of thumb, the more you spend the better. 

I've tried 4 so far on my search.  Lightcraft, Genus, Formatt and Singah-ray that a photgrapher here owned. 

Lightcraft and Genus produced the most problems including a softer image and color shift between stops.  Formatt didn't have as soft of an image but still produced a slight color shift.  Singah-ray is miles better than all of them in my opinion, and that is from one use, you'll spend a little more but it's well worth it and well built. 

General rule of thumb with Variable ND filters, and filters in general, the more you spend the higher end the glass and the lesser amount of artifacts, softening and change of color you'll see.
Jan 29 2012 9:19PM
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EC-Skier
Posts: 3899 - Karma: 668
bumping this thread because im wondering the difference between

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/120158-REG/B_W_77mm_102_Neutral_Density.html
and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/8018-REG/B_W_65_072910_77mm_102_Neutral_Density.html

i know it says extra wide, so im guessing that is the one i would need for my 11-16, but im just curious as to if there is really a major difference
May 16 2012 10:07AM
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1337
Posts: 31059 - Karma: 29,329
directly from the site:

Extra wide filter ring provides room for a larger glass substrate and reduces vignetting when used with wide angle lenses.
May 16 2012 10:25AM
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EC-Skier
Posts: 3899 - Karma: 668
i read that, but im just wondering if people have used them and know if there is actually a difference. A company can easily say that and make more money, not saying they would, but they could easily.
May 16 2012 10:30AM
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123+ski
Posts: 2832 - Karma: 581
The front ring on the 77mm LCW fader mark 2 is 82mm, sso yes it is wider, and I have heard it will work on the tokina 11-16 without vignetting (though I can't personally confirm this)
May 16 2012 11:12AM
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eheath
Posts: 61648 - Karma: 123,472
i can confirm this. I have an LCW 77mm and it does not vignette at 11mm. Although, the more expensive heliopan fader does, its odd.
May 16 2012 12:54PM
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currentwestman
Posts: 3292 - Karma: 330
curious, what kinds of lapses require a 1 second shutter speed during the day?
May 17 2012 12:14AM
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SSteezle
Posts: 9300 - Karma: 7,700
there's plenty...I usually shoot my lapses at a couple second shutter, unless I'm going for a really edgy look and want it to skip a few beats
May 17 2012 12:41AM
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currentwestman
Posts: 3292 - Karma: 330
so do you shoot like every day lapses with a second long exposure? like sunsets and what not?
May 17 2012 3:56AM
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MLeone
Posts: 725 - Karma: 72
Yus.
May 17 2012 3:31PM
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eheath
Posts: 61648 - Karma: 123,472
bumping this up instead of making a new thread.

Im looking to buy some non-fader NDs. My fader ND still does the job but is has a small crack which i get some odd reflections with. I found I basically only use it from 3-4 stops of light at any given time (1.2-1.5 ND right?) so im thinking about just buying 1 ND filter to replace it since I can adjust iso/fstop if i need to adjust for certain situation and I'd still carry my fader if I really needed it, its just worthless past 4 stops.

I'm looking at B+W (one of the top brands right?) at either getting a .6 AND .9 and stacking (how much will this effect my image?) or buying 1 1.8ND (b&h doesnt have 1.2 or 1.5 of B+W) but this 1.8ND would work for me because I'm usually running at f11-16 so id like to make that 4-8 anyway.

Thanks guys
Oct 11 2012 3:00AM
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C.A.V.
Posts: 1706 - Karma: 1,644

okay so this may be a really dumb question... dont hate.

but if your filming and taking pictures out side and it sunny wouldnt you want more light to come in so you can keep your iso lower so it wouldnt look grainy?

for example they make lens with f stops as low as like 1.5 to let in a lot more light and that helps alot?

so whats really the point of a nd filter? i mean i have one best buy gave me for free worth 80 for my canon L 17-40mm and its always on there, can someone  better explain to me to point of them?

im in study at school and this just popped in my head and thought id ask!

+k for awnsers, you can pm me so swe can let this thread stay on topic.

Oct 11 2012 8:15AM
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Bmo.
Posts: 4907 - Karma: 2,667
the quick answer to your question is this:
Photo:
Commonly used for time lapses in order to use a wider aperture, giving smaller DOF. Or just any super bright situation where you want to open up your lens in bright light at a slower shutter speed
Video:
If you're shooting skiing, shutter at 60 or 120, iso 100, and you want a smaller DOF, anything under like f/9 could be too bright (+/- a couple stops). You use the ND filter to lessen the light so you can open up your aperture to the desired setting
Oct 11 2012 8:50AM
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C.A.V.
Posts: 1706 - Karma: 1,644

much appreciated bmo. already 10/10

makes sense now!

Oct 11 2012 8:54AM
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Bmo.
Posts: 4907 - Karma: 2,667
no problem, glad i could help
Oct 11 2012 8:59AM
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eheath
Posts: 61648 - Karma: 123,472
quote since it seemed to be looked over...
Oct 11 2012 2:22PM
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t_rob
Posts: 6433 - Karma: 11,459
Did you miss this evan?

https://newschoolers.com/ns/forums/readthread/thread_id/711634/
Oct 11 2012 3:44PM
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eheath
Posts: 61648 - Karma: 123,472
I need 77mm brooo
Oct 11 2012 3:52PM
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BA.berger
Posts: 300 - Karma: 300
Check out the Tiffen filters, just got 3 of them some weeks ago (0.9) and the colors doesnt get affected by the filter, they are great and not that expensive!
Oct 11 2012 4:27PM
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t_rob
Posts: 6433 - Karma: 11,459
Useless backstory that you probably know.

So as you know, the film speed (iso), shutter speed, and aperture(fstop) are interrelated and play a very important relationship in image exposure.

If you set any one of those factors constant, you can up with relationships for the other two factors to have an identically exposed photograph. But as you already know, there are tradeoffs. Fstop controls depth of field, higher isos produce more grainy images, and shutter speed is motion blur.

_______


the part I think you might not know.

Another important piece of fstop is image distortion. Let's say you are taking a picture of a landscape with a mountain in the distance. If you shoot the image at f/4 and f/22, the mountain will appear shorter and farther away. The most "lifelike" f/stop is something between 8-11, I don't remember where. That is where most action sports producers are going to be shooting most of the time when light allows. It should also be the most important of the three factors when lighting isn't an issue.

______

Important part.

For filmers that take themselves seriously, there is a sweet spot in all three categories. f/8, iso 100, shutter 60 has been a common one for years when filming skiing. Adding the proper ND filters allows the filmer to maintain the same results in brighter light without changing the three settings.

Oct 11 2012 6:35PM
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