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Ski Help (Core Shot)

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introvert
Posts: 4718 - Karma: 1,482
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It's right under my heel. I was thinking Ptex, But I don't know how it will hold up.


I just need it to last 1/2 a season
Nov 16 2011 9:05PM
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lukewalnuts
Posts: 2730 - Karma: 152
wrong thread...
Nov 16 2011 9:07PM
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lukewalnuts
Posts: 2730 - Karma: 152
wait sorry nevermind i completely screwed up. ignore my comment
Nov 16 2011 9:08PM
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Claywilliams
Posts: 332 - Karma: 28
P-tex is the way to go..
just ask for it at your local shop, shouldn't be expensive at all.
Im sure theres some fancy way if doing it but i just light the wick on fire with a lighter and drip it over the hole. Should last a while
Nov 16 2011 9:10PM
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introvert
Posts: 4718 - Karma: 1,482
you dun goofed
Nov 16 2011 9:10PM
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lukewalnuts
Posts: 2730 - Karma: 152
since i dun goofed heres a vid...



Nov 16 2011 9:13PM
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Caleb.E
Posts: 3556 - Karma: 1,015

I came to this thread thinking i was going to see a 10 inch long super big core shot....lol

Ya, ptex with  work. Make sure u clean the whole before u put the ptex on. U can use a citric based solution to clean it out and from there just cut out extra snaglys of orignal ptex.then put ptex in....make sure u wate like 24 hours before u scrape the exses stuff of or it could comprimise the bond..

Nov 16 2011 9:14PM
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Bonzalo
Posts: 2593 - Karma: 1,812
P tex boy, do it by your own, not hard at all, just warm up the bases with an iron or a lighter, after a few minutes you are good to go, light the ptex, let it burn til its dripping... wait some time and warm the bases again drop some more ptex if you want, let it cold for some time and then with your metal scrapper, scrap out the remaining ptex. Now you are good to go, thats how I do it and it works perfectly, people probably do it all different.
Nov 16 2011 9:19PM
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Gmart
Posts: 1634 - Karma: 273
ptex outta fix that up, it bonds better to metal i think the spot that ur core shot is in actually worked in your favor so you should be good monies but don't quote me on that (but i'm pretty sure thats what the tec at my work told me)
Nov 16 2011 9:31PM
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BskiP
Posts: 1369 - Karma: 223
Ptex doesn't bond to wood or metal, whoever your tech is needs to find a new job. Base weld if you want it done right! Sg
Nov 17 2011 4:58AM
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BskiP
Posts: 1369 - Karma: 223
Should only be a few bucks.
Nov 17 2011 4:58AM
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ryhy87
Posts: 142 - Karma: 73

got a similar looking core shot - just trying to repair at the moment.  I cleaned it out well with citrus base cleaner, roughed up the metal edge and core with a bit of sandpaper...repeated the cleaning (also with warm soapy water)...and dry well..

..Then i used some epoxy (some Araldite slow cure stuff) on the inside edge and core to act as foundation for the p-tex to bond to. try not to ovefill with epoxy, think you only need it to just cover the surfaces.   Let that set for 24hours, scrape off any excess on the edges etc with a metal scraper.  Going to rough up the epoxy surface,  clean out once more then apply the p-tex.

I think the best way to go is base weld, but i'm hoping that it might work for a while.  I have been told it may well just fall out, but i'll see how it holds up

Nov 17 2011 5:56AM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
personally i'd just say fuck the ptex and epoxy that baby, wildly exaggerated you're gonna end up with 1cm² of epoxy on your base instead of ptex ...
you're not going to notice the difference and the end result will be much stronger .....
then, if you're really into base repairs and want to get tricky you could always take a dremel tool and remove a thin layer of the epoxy and fill that up with ptex ... on the other hand ptex repairs along an edge are never so clean, at least not without a ptex gun ...

i'd just go for full epoxy or if it wasn't my call i'd suggest to go to a skishop and have them fix it ....
Nov 17 2011 6:01AM
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YewTard
Posts: 619 - Karma: 196
I took a smaller but similar shot skiing rocks at Alta a couple weeks ago. PTexd it, let it settle, applied a little more to make sure it filled correctly, and it came out great.
Nov 17 2011 11:25AM
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rozboon
Posts: 1642 - Karma: 868

Personally I'd get that patched or base-welded (if your shop will do welds).

Ptex will fill it for a while but being where it is I reckon it would pop out pretty fast.

Just make sure you do something with it, if you keep skiing it like that you'll get water in the core and then your skis will turn to paper mache.

Nov 17 2011 4:59PM
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Jo_n
Posts: 77 - Karma: 50
If it was me i would take it to a shop and get a base weld.
Nov 17 2011 5:38PM
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gnarshrelpt
Posts: 572 - Karma: 15
ptex works well for the smaller core shots. a razor blade is the best tool to scrape with. its clean and easier to do
Nov 17 2011 5:54PM
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PurpleDino
Posts: 1513 - Karma: 483
P-tex won't bond to the metal so like some others said your best shot it to epoxy it first.  Something like this works well: http://www.tognar.com/loctite-608-hysol-epoxy-1-4oz-tube/

If you can find a smaller pack it will be better.  Only put enough in the gouge to cover the metal edge.  Let that cure and then you can try hitting it with a p-tex stick.
Nov 18 2011 7:36PM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
not true, you just have to know what you are doing
Nov 18 2011 7:48PM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
i've been trying em for years now and the real shots, not just scracthes, never come out 100% clean with candles ....

what am i doing wrong ?

i've tried the layering approach and all but never quite achieved succes ...
Nov 19 2011 5:28AM
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-ShredTheGnar-
Posts: 2038 - Karma: 111
P tex hole and over edge a lil, get super sharp razor blade... And it will look just as clean as p-tex gun. Half the time at work i opt to use ptex stick over the gun.
Nov 19 2011 6:42AM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
^^what do ya mean by over edging? overfill the hole so the edge is also covered in ptex, then scrape it off ?

and you fill in layers? or all at once ?
Nov 19 2011 6:55AM
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-ShredTheGnar-
Posts: 2038 - Karma: 111
Over filling the hole so the edge is covered in ptex, I fill in layers if its all the way to the core. and texture the layer..

So p tex first layer, then with a razor blade cut an X pattern into the ptex once its set.. this helps the 2nd layer bond better to the first layer.
(something I learnt from tiling that i found worked for ski tuning haha)

And by using the razorblade instead of a metal scraper to remove the excess reduces chance of the ptex cracking, Then makes smooth by base filing near the edge (place tissue paper under the file on the base so you are only removing the petex/damaged area. That's how I was taught to do it. And that was from Didier Cuche's technician so must be right haha.
Nov 19 2011 9:29AM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
i always removed excess ptex with a panzer file but yeah, that might be a bit too rough, gonna give the old razor a try next time! gilette quattro fusion ftw! ;)

and the texturing of the ptex is also a cool idea, thanks !
Nov 19 2011 9:35AM
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-ShredTheGnar-
Posts: 2038 - Karma: 111
I can't even afford to shave my face with such a thing let alone my ski HAHA

I know you probably know but just to make sure a razor blade like this...
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Nov 19 2011 9:38AM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
i know ;)

although i'm kinda tempted to give it a try with one of my old quattro blades, just for shits and giggles :)
Nov 19 2011 9:41AM
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-ShredTheGnar-
Posts: 2038 - Karma: 111
For the smoothest ski around
Nov 19 2011 9:43AM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
in reply to your PM, I take a razor blade and remove any excess stuff from around the hole, then take a little bit of sand paper to make the rim a bit more corse. Drop a little bit of epoxy in in the hole, then ptex over that. Then it's just a matter of getting the base clean and flat again, which is just more time consuming then anything. I life to use a metal scraper here, but you might find use for the razor blade again. Go about it slowly and you will get it perfect sooner or later.
Nov 19 2011 9:45AM
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