No problem man. I hate it when you don't get a text back, so I can only imagine the same for some Q&A stuff on a forum. I've also had a lot of help from a large number of people who gave me their undivided time and attention, so it's only fair if I pay it forward. Plus I just love to talk about it. (By the way, if any of those people see me giving terrible advice, call me out on it. I'd hate to be confusing an issue even more)
ALRIGHT, so I think I'll start with these
EXCESSIVE tape test results. So here we go! All of the test pieces pressed flawlessly. I pressed them at 60psi for 6 hours to get relatively similar results to what happens during a real pressing.
Here's how the sheet came out:
I applied an even coat of release wax to the entire sheet just like my cassette, then applied a dime sized drop of epoxy to the taped face of each test piece. Then to begin the test I just hand peeled each piece from the sheet. If I had some instrument to give me some form of solid numbers from the test, I would have used it, but I don't... So a calibrated feel (lol) would have to suffice.
I'll give a quick writeup on each test piece, how it peeled from the sheet, and how the tape peeled from the piece. I'll move in order from left to right.
Vinyl Application Tape:
This was the 'hatched' version of what most people seem to recommend for masking off bases and topsheets. I was immediately concerned when I went to peel the test piece from the aluminium. The test piece peeled right off the tape, and the tape was stuck to the cassette and hard to remove. It seems to be a poor candidate for my wanted application because I need it to lift off with the ski (the cassette can be hard to clean tape off off) and the tape's adhesive need's to hold the ski base in place firmly while pressing.
Gorilla Tape:
The gorilla tape is like an alternative to duct tape I guess. I was very skeptical of it going in to the test. It peeled off with the epoxy still stuck to it which is expected. When I peeled the tape off of the test piece I was very impressed. The gorilla tape seemed to be a little hard to pull off with it's strong adhesive quality, but it seems more tear resistant than any other piece. And if it does tear it's easy to lift up to keep peeling away. It also left a little piece of residue, but the residue rolled off with my finger easily. A promising prospect.
Green Painting Tape:
The green masking tape peeled off the test piece very well. It seemed to evacuate epoxy from underneath it very well. However when peeling the tape from the test piece, it was pretty brittle, and ripped very easily yet wasn't adhering to the base particularly well either.. Would be frustrating to remove from the ski post pressing.
Clear Duct Tape:
This was the tape I was most interested in trying. I was very surprised when I lifted the test piece from the aluminium. The epoxy stuck to the tape as it came off, then it just sort of flopped itself away from the tape (you can see it in the picture) Pretty promising idea to have no epoxy on the tape when peeling the tape away, and have it come off the cassette at the same time. The tape peeled from the base pretty well, but when it did tear, it left an ugly tear that was hard to re-start. Since it's clear you can also see through it and the topsheet when doing the layup to check for any mis-alignment issues
before the skis are loaded into the press which is also a nice benefit.
'HD' Packing Tape:
The 'HD' version of the tape used by quite a few builders as I understand. It seemed to evacuate the most epoxy out of all the tapes. It peeled off of the aluminium very well. The tape being the 'HD' version (which I expected to be a pricer, BS marketing deal) actually seemed to be quite stretchy and pliable unlike the packing tape I used for the original pressing. It's also clear which once again, is nice to be able to check everything with the topsheet on the layup one last time. It's one of the cheaper tapes to!
Post Test Pic:
Verdict:
After logically tossing around some pros and cons, I've decided to use the
gorilla tape on the base material, as it will see the most epoxy, and has to adhere to the base very well. I've also decided to try the '
HD' packing tape on the topsheet as it's pretty easy to remove, and is pliable when removing. And I still get that last chance to see into the ski before it get's pressed to check for alignment. The duct tape was very close to replacing the packing tape for the topsheet, but it just wasn't as workable in the end.
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Alrighty, to answer a few of your questions edollo. I'm a hair hazy on vac bag setups as I'm just trying to get one going for doing composite parts now, and even that will be a hair different; so I won't be able to answer all of them.
For a vacuum pump for my setup though, I'll be using the compressor from an old refrigerator, and using the intake side of it to evacuate the air from the bag. It's an old Tecumseh pump that needs some TLC before I have it running. I'll try to keep an update on that (more projects oh god...)
For wood, I think poplar makes for a good wood to start as a core material. It's cheap, pretty durable, widely available (I can't buy it locally though, no idea why...) it's easier to work with (as opposed to cutting and sanding hardwoods like maple) and it's stiffness seems to land in the middle of the pack when compared to other woods. Personally I'm using a maple/aspen split, but it isn't the cheapest.
And a ski's materials. I'll try to stack some text sort of how the ski would go together if we were to do a cutaway.
Topsheet
Fiberglass (Full Length)
Fiberglass(Binding Sheet)
Sidewall | Core | Sidewall
Fiberglass(Full Length)
VDS VDS
Edge | Base Material | Edge
The only thing that is needed that is missing is the tipspacers. They would go on either end of the core. The VDS is also optional when building. Loads of other composite reinforcements and other stuff you can stick into a core as well, but that's pretty much a traditional construction there.
Pretty much all of it can be bought here:
http://www.skilab.com/
http://www.blankslateskis.com/
http://www.snowboardmaterials.com/
And for epoxy I'm using this stuff:
http://www.entropyresins.com/products/super-sap-clr
Hope that helps, super long post, so there might be some reading to do in there. The tape thing was excessive, but I wanted to finish that up, might be useful for someone else down the road to. Thanks for getting into it guys!