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Yeah OP, if it isnt needed don't do it. Besides, nowadays the more of the colour spectrum you cover, the more gnar points you have (Thats what the scripture written by the holy man Steezus said)
However, if you HAVE to do it, i would do it as so.
1st, figure out what parts you would like to paint. Buy some scotch bright pads (buy the fine shit, NOT coarse if possible) Take the scotch bright to these parts, and knock the sheen off all of them, they should look kind of dull, be carefull not to scotch brite the parts you want left alone when you do this.
2nd, take dishsoap and warm water, and some paper towel, and wash the to-be painted areas off throughogly, removing all of the dust caused by scotch brighting, and any other dirt dust and grime. Use dishsoap, and solvents or paint prep, will likley eat the plastic. When doing this, dont submerge your bindings in the water, and let them dry off when your all done. Don't use compressed air, as you could blow shit inside the binding.
3rd, mask off all of the areas you want to KEEP PAINT OFF OF and any areas where you wouldnt want paint to go (Internals of the binding), with blue automotive masking tape. This stuff should be the stuff that looks like electrical tape, NOT the stuff you use for painting on walls. You can use the wall tape on top of the blue tape, using a big overlap, to seal off large areas, and make sure the seams are all sealed up tight. Try to keep your greasy fingers off of the areas to be painted, or paint wont stick. if you do, take some soap and water on some paper towel, and gently clean the area off again.
4th, go to town with the colour you want to paint with. USE VERY LIGHT COATS AND WAIT 15 MINUTES between coats. If you spray verrrrry light coats, and do many of them, the paintjob will look smoother, and wont have any shitty runs, it will also stick better. If you want even better adhesion, use a primer before you paint, but make sure the primer and paint are compatible. I also suggest 2-4 coats of clear, to preserve the paintjob, make sure its compatible too. (Test this out on cardboard or scrap aluminium) I would suggest waiting like and hour when switching between primer, paint, and clear. When your all done give the paint job a SOLID 2 DAYS TO CURE if you can, before ripping off all of the masking tape, and mounting them up, even at that, the paint will still be very soft, so BE CAREFULL (When I painted my ski poles, i waited 24 hours, my grips screwed up a ton of paint around the handle when i was hammering them back on, I was pissed)
This is just a guide, if anyone has any input, throw it in, and you must understand that
IF YOU FOLLOW THIS YOU RUN THE RISK OF FUCKING YOUR GEAR UP, DON'T HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE!!!!!!!
