Ski Tuning. Edges?

Dull them, especially underfoot for rails

dull em for sure...DIY

What about for those of us that ski the mountain too on the same sticks?

Rails will dull edges underfoot overtime. Either that or crack 'em first as I found out last season.

I want to tune my-edges. Keep them dull underfoot, but then towards the tip and tail what do most people tune to? I hear a lot of people use a 1 degree bevel.

Someone with more knowledge feel free to chime in. Tuning edges is still something that is largely unknown for myself as well.

P.S. - I ski West so you crud and ice isn't too much of a concern for me.

^thanks. +k

ya i am ski the west and everything on one set of skis. also last year i just left my ar6s edges and on my right ski there is nothing left underfoot. like it was round. which sucked because there was less edge for setting spins and switch ups on rails

For the park quiver, using a chrome file, I detune (practically round) my edges from an inch in front of my bindings to an inch behind on both sides. I've had people come into my shop and ask only for the outsides to be detuned so they can still use their inside edge, but this makes little sense to me.

I detune my skis after putting a 1 1/2 degree base bevel on them. I use a 1 1/2 degree instead of a 1 degree or 1/2 degree because it raises the effective edge off the base more to prevent catching an edge on boxes, rails, and even pavement.

I use a 1 1/2 degree side bevel to make them sharper in the rest of the edge that is still effective. This helps still carve when you're riding fast, but with the base bevel raised it isn't catchy. Typically, when people mention a 90 degree bevel, thats 1 degree base, 1 degree side. Pretty standard many factory brands. Not to aggressive, not to wimpy (actually, its pretty weak for ripping around on hard snow).

 After they are tuned and detuned, I use a gummy stone to remove any burrs or edge flake, and then I go pretend to shred like I'm 10 years younger and not an old gaper.  

Yeahs

Sorry about that, but there isn't really too much to say after the first few posts. Other than just ski maintenance ( which you should do everyday). And all that is, is just going over little spots on the edges that could lead to possible edge cracks. If you see any small dents or specks just go over them with your stone or file. I used to race and tune my own skis, but I'm forgetting everything now....

I don't understand anything you just said. But I just got brand new skis and I'm planning on going to Sunday River on Thursday where I'll be hitting some boxes/rails, which will be the first time I use these skis. Any suggestions on detuning the edges or anything? I don't want to be catching edges all day if there's something I can do to help that. But all the degree talk is confusing me.. what can a normal person do to do it?

I'm pretty sure the detuning of inside edges comes from kids who are primarily racers, right?

Generally racers have a race and train edge. Most of the pressure/wear is gonna be on the inside, downhill edge. If they use the same edges they tune them for practice, it can be a lighter tune they don't worry much about. When it comes to the race, they switch skis so if they're riding before their run the race tune won't get worn down. Also they'll be more meticulous about it and you're spending less time tuning because you're focusing primarily on one edge.

What I don't think they realize is that rails will generally beat the shit outta both uphill edges, not just the insides.



I rarely tune my park skis, when I do it's basically from an inch or two in front of the toe piece and same behind the heel. 1 degree base (Which I generally don't touch) and 2 degree side (But that's all personal preference, I really haven't played with them much). If you're skiing out west I'd think you don't really have to be toooo concerned about keeping them razor sharp. Not much ice out there to deal with. If you're tuning frequently you don't need to file every time, that's just a waste of edge.

If you're hitting rails a lot, you're never gonna get underfoot close to factory specs without a hell of a base grind.

I detune my edges underfoot, and in the tip and tail where they contact on turns so that i don't catch up carving into jumps.  Before comps I wax with a swix wax that best suits the conditions.

Yeah, actually that's exactly right. But what I dont understand about why they want this, is because they are always park specific and urban skis.And I would think that they would rather not have to worry about them being catchy on rails, boxes, and especially wood, ABS, or PVC. I dont know, I'm a noob. I just figured those who come from such structured ski programs usually don't jib their practice GS skis. 

This

You also might want to find out if you have a, extruded or a sintered base material. Honestly, there's no reason to waste time waxing an extruded base. These bases are usually more durable, and harder plastic, but because they aren't porous they won't hold the properities in the wax that create the glide. Do have a shop stone a good pattern that matches your areas most frequent snow type into the base.

Sintered bases, which are softer and more porous, will hold those properities better. But they aren't as durable and require more care. If your shop isn't legit then make sure they don't sand them to make them flat unless you want them slower.   

My guess is that those are their tree and freeride skis, and they're pretty much park n00bs. Someone told them to detune underfoot or else they'll get hurt, so they do. But they want a sharp edge for free riding. It's a paradox really, but they most likely don't understand the logic behind why they're doing what they're told to do.

Use a gummy stone to dull under foot so that you dont crack your edges. Dont use a file.

As a ski tech I use a file. The tech's that I know use a file. A gummy stone will detune an edge if its rubbed against the edge several times. But after the edges are done they almost always get a once over with a soft stone. I use a gummy stone to detune the tips and tails, but underfoot I like my edges obtuse. I use a 12 teeth/ cm straight milled file, the same I would use for doing edges by hand.  

To each is own, I'm not saying my way is better, its just the way I have been taught by people who I trust know way more then I do.

 I should throw out there that I only use a 12 teeth/ cm straight milled file to do the first pass or two on rough edges, or when I'm cutting a new angle.

I know how by not saying one thing it might automatically mean I'm implying everything else. 

what i did: