Welcome to the Newschoolers forums! You may read the forums as a guest, however you must be a registered member to post.
Register to become a member today!
Which bindings should I get?
Posts: 984
-
Karma: 120
Hi NS. I'm getting new skis and bindings for this season. I've decided on skis already (Line SFB) but still quite unsure about bindings.
I have two choices: Look Pivot 14 and 18 (or the Rossi equivalents). I run DIN 9 so that's in range for both bindings. I might run DIN 10 this season though, because I'm a bit heavier than last year. The 18s are a bit more expensive (290 € vs. 320 €) but the toe pieces seem a bit different on them. Are they better? What's the main difference?
I'm willing to pay the extra for the 18s if there's a real improvement over the 14s. If not, I'll just get the cheaper 14s. Help me out!
Posts: 3432
-
Karma: 851
if you're asking us, you dont need the 18's
Posts: 814
-
Karma: 79
Aside from the springs in the 180's being able to accommodate a higher DIN (obviously) the main difference is the metal toe of the 180 vs the composite of the 140. The 180 is a more solidly built binding, but unless you're riding serious lines and dropping some big cliffs I'd stay clear.
If you ride at a 9 there is NO WAY you should get the 180's. Save yourself the money and the potential for injury.
Posts: 984
-
Karma: 120
Had you actually read my post, you would know why I'm asking.
I'm not interested in running DIN 18 because I don't need that. What I'm interested in is the toe piece.
Posts: 984
-
Karma: 120
I am interested in buying really solid bindings that will last me a long time. This injury talk confuses me. The 18s have a DIN range of 8-18, so surely riding them at 9 or 10 wouldn't be any different than running the 14s at 9 or 10?
Posts: 3432
-
Karma: 851
It is always better to have your din set in the middle of the range, so I'd you ride a 9, like me, 14 sins will be just fine I have the old race 155s and they seem very bomber, so j would save some cash and just go with the 14's
Posts: 984
-
Karma: 120
Thanks man, that was a lot more helpful.
Posts: 9141
-
Karma: 12,885
To be honest, you'd be fine with either one. The 180s are gonna be a bit more durable, just cause they're made to be stronger, but if you're only riding at 9 or 10 it's really not worth it, there's plenty of room in the 140s above 10. I had the 140s last season, and a friend on mine got the 180s this season (he's a rossi rider/rep so that's what they sent him) and they're much heavier, which means, they'll be more durable, but heavier. Personally, I'd save the money and get the 140s, I didn't have any problems with mine last year, but if you really thing you need the 180s then go for it (need is the key word there).
Posts: 814
-
Karma: 79
Yeah, what Flash said basically.
You'd have a lot of room riding the 140's at 9 to increase your DIN should you need to, and you'll be saving a pretty good bit of cash in the process.
It's best not to ride a binding too close to the extremes of it's range. (too low or too high).
At the end of the day, I am not a shop tech. I'm advising you to take the more logical and safe route. If you really want that extra metal and think it will fit your ability better then it's up to you to make that call.
Posts: 984
-
Karma: 120
Thank you for pointing out the weight. I really didn't think about that at all. I guess I'll go for the 14s. The toe piece on them is good too, isn't it?
Posts: 814
-
Karma: 79
I have the 140's.
The toe piece isn't solid metal, but it's very sturdy. It's also a fair bit lighter as you are saying.
Either way you can't go wrong with these bindings. They're both built from a tried and true construction .
All times are Eastern (-5)
