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Nikon lenses for Sale (7d and T2i owners)

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horner
Posts: 2439 - Karma: 1,578
I have a few lenses I no longer need. All come with Nikon to eos adapter. Shipping not included.

Nikon 135mm f2.8 $90 (comes with .9 Tiffen ND)
Great condition, focus ring is perfectly smooth, aperture ring clicks nicely. Nice sharp lens.

Tokina 17mm f3.5 $50
Cool lens, looks new. Focus ring is nice and smooth, has a little bit of play in it, nothing serious.

Nikon 35mm f2 $40 (comes with .6 grad filter and .9 TIffen ND)
Smooth focus ring, looks new, nice aperture ring

email me or pm
contact@alexhorner.com



Jul 17 2010 3:29AM
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horner
Posts: 2439 - Karma: 1,578
I'll sell them all for $180 and include shipping as well.
Jul 17 2010 3:31AM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
pm'd about the 35, dibs
Jul 17 2010 5:44AM
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horner
Posts: 2439 - Karma: 1,578
Quick shot from the 35mm lens.

http://www.vimeo.com/13415131
password: test
Jul 17 2010 12:10PM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
35 sold :D
Jul 17 2010 3:30PM
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TWoods
Posts: 10014 - Karma: 8,386
any shots from the 135?

any scratches, dust or spotting inside the lens at all?
Jul 18 2010 1:12AM
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MANDER
Posts: 4017 - Karma: 2,038
I hate to come off looking stupid here but I have never seen an aperture ring on a lens before. That being said, I have only used newer cameras where aperture is controlled in camera. Anyone want to enlighten me?
Aug 7 2010 10:45PM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
What are you asking?

To use these lenses on your d60 or t2i just lock the aperature to f/32 or whatever its highest is and then you can control it in camera like you do with the newer lenses.
Aug 8 2010 12:32AM
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Ben.
Posts: 21463 - Karma: 683
i dont think so. pretty sure you have to shoot full manual or aperture priority and stop down yourself.
Aug 8 2010 12:35AM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
Uhm no.

Ive seen the glass, its AI/AI-s. If you have a D200 or higher you can do exactly like I said and it will meter fine. If you have anything less, (D90/D60/D5000) it will not meter at all. But you still set the glass to its highest aperture and control the aperture in camera.
Aug 8 2010 1:11AM
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Ben.
Posts: 21463 - Karma: 683
on nikons maybe. but not on a canon.


i highly doubt a nikon lens with an adapter will communicate with a canon body
Aug 8 2010 1:28AM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
Well good assumption. Seeing as how the Nikon glass wont communicate with newer Nikon Cameras, Id hope that assumption came easily. Im not saying it will work, but based on Nikon logic it should. A D60 cant communicate electronically with the AI-s glass, but it can control its mechanics, so why cant Canons do the same?

Anyone with any experience past a rebel or t2i care to enlighten me (us.)
Aug 8 2010 1:53AM
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Jordan
Posts: 4079 - Karma: 2,122
FUCK YOU
Aug 8 2010 1:56AM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
guess what?

ITS MY SHARPEST LENS AND MY FAVORITE AND ITS SO GOOD
Aug 8 2010 5:03AM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
>implying t2i users don't know shit about cameras.

Well, your argument is 90% wrong. There are no electronic connections on the lens in the first place.
ex. 1: bottom of my lens
Click for larger image

The reason why this worked with some, but not all of the cameras, is because there is a small mechanical lever in the lens (pic didn't capture it, sorry). When stopped down all the way, the lever can move the aperture through the full range, if at a different stop, it can only max out at that particular stop. The ONLY reason it works on some Nikon cams and not the others is because they don't have this lever installed or it doesn't line up with the lens. It has nothing to do with electronics in any way.

Most canon-nikon adapters don't even have electronic communication in them like you assumed (most people adapting glass are probably smart enough to handle a manual lens to begin with, there isn't a real need for it). Unless you got one of them (and I'm not sure as to how well they work) that would be the only time you could communicate between a camera, but this lens doesn't even have electronics. And the lever? covered up by any canon adapter, and a canon camera most certainly wouldn't have the same lever in the first place.

So next time we try to hijack a thread, lets do a little research before jumping to conclusions. Also, I'm a t2i guy, want to take back the implication?

And mander, this is what a manual lens looks like:
Click for larger image

the ring on the bottom with the stops is twisted to change the aperture. Very convenient, just twist and shoot!
Click for larger image
Aug 8 2010 5:43AM
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tom.skier
Posts: 817 - Karma: 392
^win. Excellent knowledge. Learnt a thing or two myself there. Thanks.
Aug 8 2010 5:48AM
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Ben.
Posts: 21463 - Karma: 683
thank you
Aug 8 2010 9:54AM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
just doin my job
Aug 8 2010 11:02AM
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MANDER
Posts: 4017 - Karma: 2,038
1337.$ = WIN
Aug 8 2010 12:00PM
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family_vacation
Posts: 6200 - Karma: 7,840
I also use old nikon with my t2i. The aperture ring is so much better than modern lenses.
Aug 8 2010 12:48PM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
Agreed x100

Having aperture that requires me to go into a menu stinks. And god forbid the connections get fucked up and it doesn't communicate anymore. The ONLY downside is not having autofocus every once in a while. It's sometimes nice to be able to use it to make sure you are on target (mostly telephoto stuff), but hey, if I can save a few hundred bucks and get a great quality lens then why not!
Aug 8 2010 2:46PM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
First off, thanks for spending all that time telling me what I learned back in photo one. It was a delightful recap, as well as a waste of time.

I would like to know where I implied that a Canon camera can control a Nikon lens electronically? In fact I even said a Nikon body cant control AI-s glass electronically, but it can control the mechanics (that level that you spent so much time talking about, yeah I just referred to it as "mechanics.")

"The ONLY reason it works on some Nikon cams and not the others is because they don't have this lever installed or it doesn't line up with the lens."
^^ Yeah actually thats wrong, AI-s glass will work on ever camera post 1977. You still do EXACTLY as I said, stop down to f/32 and control the aperture in camera, the only difference is anything less than a D200 will not meter, likeee I said.

Trust me kiddo, you didnt school me on Nikon glass. And Im sorry that you wasted your time, which stilllll leads me towards not taking back any "implication." But  I bet all the pretweens sucking on your nuts felt nice?
Aug 8 2010 6:11PM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
Oh and for the record, there is no way that having an older AI-s glass on a Canon is worth it. The marginal sharpness isn't worth losing AF & metering. Plus I highly doubt that anyone on this site (save a few) can notice the difference in glass between the two brands. And even if you could, you wouldnt be fucking around with a $35 Nikon AI-s prime, you'd be investing in some zeiss glass.

(** Since you guys get butt hurt easy, this glass is a great quality for the price and I highly recommend buying since most people our age cant afford zeiss {35mm f/2 runs for $1000})
Aug 8 2010 6:18PM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
I'd say it is. AF is for pussays
Aug 8 2010 7:24PM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
And you dont consider yourself a little different than 90% of the other photogs on here?


And please give me one reason for discrediting AF, other than bragging you manual focus makes you feel better about yourself..
Aug 9 2010 12:38AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
Not at all. I'm just another kid fucking around with a camera.

And I've been in more than one scenario where AF doesn't get the image completely in focus. Looking back on it, I smacked myself in the forehead for not focusing by hand and vowed: never again.
Aug 9 2010 12:49AM
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Keyjibbs
Posts: 1542 - Karma: 96
Manual focusing is much more reliable than AF, though AF is very convenient it's not necessary at all. As far as metering goes, learn the sunny 16 rule and you'll never need to meter again. Plus with digi you can just check the histogram after a few test shots to dial in the exposure.
Aug 9 2010 12:54AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
bingo. wtf is this metering business about
Aug 9 2010 12:57AM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
Cool saying bro. Too bad it doesnt apply. Not everyone takes hipster photos outside all day. Some of us may shoot idono, indoors? In studios? I wonder how much weight your sunny 16 rule applies shooting for 3 strobes in a studio.

Well you guys keep manually focusing, Ill just get those shots you missed because you were fiddling with the lens.

Aug 9 2010 1:12AM
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[~_~]
Posts: 20239 - Karma: 1,273
I find it ironic that you're calling him a hipster when your flicker page contains faux-art photos of random meaningless objects complete with iPhone holga filter and superimposed slide frames.

The thing is, the more you manually focus, the faster and more accurate you get at it. There have been numerous situations where I can manually focus faster than the AF. Except when I do it by hand, I KNOW it's in focus. Auto focus is convenient in certain situations, but if you can learn to nail a sharp focus by hand, not only do you become a more well-rounded photographer, but you can effectively shoot a larger variety of lenses.
Aug 9 2010 1:28AM
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Keyjibbs
Posts: 1542 - Karma: 96
You're calling me a hipster when you upload a bunch of Hipstamic app photos to your Flickr? Your in camera metering system is definitely not helping your overexposed skies in the majority of your photos... Also if you actually know about strobes enough you better have a light meter in your studio and not rely on the in camera metering system. Manual focusing takes what, 3 seconds at max to dial in the focus? Not too many situations where I don't have the option of manual focusing. AF is a tool for photographers, but it isn't superior than manual focusing.
Aug 9 2010 1:53AM
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1337
Posts: 31054 - Karma: 29,234
so you should be all set with one of these then right?

Click for larger image


It's stupid that you are even arguing about autofocus in the first place. 100% of focusing done in filming (which these lenses were suggested to be used for in the first place) should and is usually manual. Case and point. You discrediting manual focus, especially when you're walking around with your nose up saying you shoot in studios, is one of the stupidest thinks I've ever heard. Like Landis said, once you learn it, it's quicker, you have more control, it's more reliable, and you have the peace of mind that it isn't going to do something else on you at the last second. Autofocus is usually slow, and when you have an array of glass, and you can't always time your focusing right. Some of my non-adapted lenses focus so slow, and jump between objects all the time. I'd rather just keep my shit manual.

/.02
Aug 9 2010 5:44AM
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BryantPhoto
Posts: 1574 - Karma: 891
B/S/T forum?
Aug 9 2010 7:37AM
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.jr
Posts: 5313 - Karma: 356
Im sorry you guys do not like the ever important images that I have shot with my camera phone. I fully understand why you are basing your judgement on me solely from the images I shot with said camera phone. Thats how every judges photographers right? Ha, Id love to hear your thoughts on artists like chase jarvis. 

Honestly, sounds like you guys need either better glass or better bodies, I havent ever had a problem with my camera and if I did, I just refocused. The only lens I shoot mf with is the film lenses and my 28-75 2.8. Because well that lens just sucks balls.

And who ever said you need a meter in the studio.. uhm thanks? I think you got my point..? As far as overexposed skies ( I assume you are talking about the shots of the couple?) One of my strobes went down that day, and the other couldnt put out enough power, so it was underexpose them, or overexpose the sky. I think you would of made the same choice as I.

You guys stick with MF all you want, all I know is that I was given/paid for a tool, and I will use it.
Aug 9 2010 9:27AM
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