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FKS 180/Pivot 18 owners

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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
A question just for anyone who owns the new (09/10 season) orange FKS 180 or silver Pivot 18's: is the baseplate on the new versions plastic or metal? I've broken 7 of these on my old FKS 155s, was pretty sure I was going to sell them but a friend of mine said he thought the plates on the new ones might be metal. I was doubtful about this so people who own them, what say you?

This piece:

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May 12 2010 6:42AM
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Ralf
Posts: 978 - Karma: 81
my friend silver pivot 18 09/10 has plastic
May 12 2010 8:08AM
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no_steeze
Posts: 23992 - Karma: 4,272
my fks 180's are plastic as well. identical design to the old ones in terms of what's plastic and what's metal except i think all the half moon pieces are metal whereas with older ones it was kind of a toss up if you got metal or plastic
May 12 2010 9:25AM
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dynodonkey
Posts: 75 - Karma: 10
how the hell do you break that part??
May 12 2010 2:16PM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
OK thanks guys. Yeah I don't know how it breaks but I've broken 7 of them. First it cracks then part of the plastic breaks off, at which point the forward pressure needs tightened a little (but boot still has a little play), then the whole back part of that piece (including the forward pressure mechanism) falls off and they're totally unusable. I've never seen this happen to anyone else's but saw this for sale thread on TGR with some cracked pieces:

Crack: http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/jdfische/6heel.jpg

Part of plastic broken off: http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/jdfische/5heel.jpg

I love the bindings and my shop hooks me up with replacement baseplates and brakes when I break them but they're a real pain in the ass to unmount, dismantle, swap, reassemble and remount when parts break. If the new ones were metal I would try to get hold of those baseplates but seems they're plastic too. So I'll be swapping to Peak 15 next winter and should still be able to sell my FKS with new baseplates for a decent price.
May 12 2010 2:39PM
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no_steeze
Posts: 23992 - Karma: 4,272
huh i've seen that plastic break off a lot, didn't know if screwed with the forward pressure though. i figured it was harmless
May 12 2010 3:09PM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
Yeah when it's happened to mine the indicator still reads the same but there's a bit of play in the binding (rolling side to side like putting the ski for edge to edge, and also vertically at the heel). Tightening the FP up a little make it a bit tighter. They still stay in and release predictably like that, until the whole back part of the baseplate (with white tab and little spring) breaks off.

Like I said I totally love the bindings - I can run my DIN lower on these than PX or Salomons I've had in the past and still feel really secure and safe. Peak 15s seem just as strong to me, we'll see how those work out for me.
May 12 2010 3:30PM
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p-oskier
Posts: 1407 - Karma: 58

Peak 15s and mojo 15s are the same right? cause I can get mojo 15s for cheaper than peak 15s. I was looking at some bindings for my pow skis for next year and was thinking about moyo 15s or FKS 14s but mojo bindins are a lot cheaper and seem to be good. Would mojo 15s be a good choice for Armada JJs?

May 13 2010 11:28AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
09/10 Mojo 15, 09/10 Peak 15 and 08/09 Peak 15 are the same. I think 08/09 Mojo 15 had the heel that wasn't as good and silly conveyor belt AFD. 07/08 Mojo 15 was definitely the not so good version. Just check what you're buying. I'm pretty sure if it's got the solid AFD it's good the good heel.
May 13 2010 11:33AM
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PC.
Posts: 1105 - Karma: 18
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/skiuniverse/items/item.aspx?itemid=3492492


Cheapest you'll get online, and the one you want.
May 13 2010 7:36PM
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CTD
Posts: 6300 - Karma: 348
yeah def broken those plenty of times, although usually on older ones. the plastic is probably a bit higher quality on newer ones.
May 14 2010 1:17AM
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eatinpow
Posts: 434 - Karma: 16
I have broken the baseplate in the same way described in the second pic from tgr and it hasnt been a probllem, those are the only ones i have broken though. I've never heard of people repetitively breaking that part.... Because there shouldnt be any added stress on that part of the binding.. I would make sure you have the steel half moon piece that goes in before the screws, because the only thing i can think of is either your using super old fks parts, or your just landing real hard and the forces is cracking the plate, which doesnt seem very likely...
May 14 2010 11:01AM
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CTD
Posts: 6300 - Karma: 348
i think what typically breaks it is the bridge piece slamming into it. might have to try gluin a little foam under it? might help
May 14 2010 12:52PM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
This shot from that TGR thread shows the initial crack. The only explanation I can think of is pressure at the side of the curved plastic part that sits on top of it which would be caused by a heavy landing on-edge slightly backseat. That said I've cracked them on the set that's on my fat skis too which only had about 15 days this year. Who knows.

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May 14 2010 1:18PM
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RudyGarmisch
Posts: 25443 - Karma: 13,844
I've seen that piece break three times between two sets of FKS, in both cases from a brake arm getting snagged and bent. Fucking stupid, they always crack. Would be absolutely bomber if that was made metal.
May 14 2010 3:19PM
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MarkieR
Posts: 5337 - Karma: 98
the new brakes are substantially more durable. with every pair of older fks bindings i had, the brakes exploded within a couple of days of riding. with the new 180 xxls, i made it through an entire season of beating them to hell with absolutely no problems, they didn't even get the slightest bit tweaked at any point. if this baseplate problem is in fact the result of the brakes fucking up, then you should be pretty much golden with the new fks design.
May 14 2010 8:40PM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
Good to know, thanks. I'll see if I can get replacement parts from the new versions (all this year it was still the older parts with 75mm brakes that I got hold of).
May 15 2010 5:55AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
If anything they'll pre-release. Snap your boot into the ski on the floor and have someone stand on the ski in front and behind the binding. Then torque to boot to see how much play there is, see how easy it is to kick the toe out sideways. Get them tested if you're not sure.
May 15 2010 3:06PM
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ARspinna
Posts: 803 - Karma: 27
if the forward pressure tab is gone I would say no, that is necessary on this simple binding system to keep you dialed in. Hopefully, if you happen to break that piece the forward pressure stays, because it is under the metal base underneath and you should be good - just press all the way down to the ski to release/clue back together for position reasons.
Jul 6 2010 4:22PM
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wazzucrewskier
Posts: 2269 - Karma: 151
it would be sick if someone with a cnc machine was nice enough to cut some of us a copy of those pieces out.
Jul 6 2010 5:06PM
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cobra_commander
Posts: 16909 - Karma: 4,686
shits plastic. and rowen can't ski, so disregard his opinion.
Jul 6 2010 7:02PM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
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Jul 6 2010 7:26PM
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highpeak
Posts: 426 - Karma: 2,209
Hey guys I have a similar problem. My white plastic forward mounting thing is fine but there is a crack in the plastic at the back like some of those photos. I would like to replace the base plate, however, I was wondering if that base plate could be replaced without having to undrill the skis. From what I know, undrilling and remounting in the same holes is not ideal, so I would like to fix the problem by replacing the base plate while also not having to undrill. Is this even possible?
Mar 7 2017 10:28PM
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highpeak
Posts: 426 - Karma: 2,209
Hey guys I have a similar problem. My white plastic forward mounting thing is fine but there is a crack in the plastic at the back like some of those photos. I would like to replace the base plate, however, I was wondering if that base plate could be replaced without having to undrill the skis. From what I know, undrilling and remounting in the same holes is not ideal, so I would like to fix the problem by replacing the base plate while also not having to undrill. Is this even possible?
Mar 7 2017 10:28PM
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highpeak
Posts: 426 - Karma: 2,209
Sorry I did not mean to hit that twice. If anyone can help though that would be awesome
Mar 7 2017 10:29PM
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