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Mounting Your Own Skis

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jerad
Posts: 3236 - Karma: 47
This past weekend I anxiously dropped my brand new Afterbangs off at my local shop to get mounted, only to find out they drilled the binding screws too far, pushing through the base of my ski. After this, and reading a thread about a person who was nervous after dropping his skis off to get mounted, I figured this might be a relevant thread to make.

I more or less know how to mount skis, but was hoping some people could provide insight on how to do it successfully. Without a jig, you could trace the screw holes on your skis, then drill there, right? Also, what kind of drill bit would you need for a power drill, and how deep into the ski should you typically drill? Last question, what kind of glue would you put in the screw holes? Wood glue?

Any info would be greatly appreciated, I plan on practicing mounting old bindings on some old skis to try and get this down.
Dec 28 2009 5:49PM
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treebeard
Posts: 3685 - Karma: 2,235
if you don't mind waiting a day or so i could take it to ski north and have it done for free. i worked there last year and the guy who does mounts and shit is reliable
Dec 28 2009 5:59PM
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j.bird
Posts: 6680 - Karma: 15
there is a Vimeo instructional video on how to do it. Its not as simple as just drilling where your binding holes are. You almost need to make your own "own" jig. I will try to find it.
Dec 28 2009 6:02PM
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Whifazoo
Posts: 737 - Karma: 132

you would have to fit your boot into the binging that is not yet mounted, there is a small mark on most boots that you can use as a reference point to line up with the line on your ski (mark is on undeside of boot in the center). then i would trace or mark where the bindings are sitting on the ski. then you would have to measure and draw where the holes would be. then take a center punch to make sure your bt doesnt wander. as for the bit there are specs on the ski with what type of bit to use (usuall something like 7.5 bi 4.0mm) you can get them from KUU company. as for depth you will start to drill and when you feel the base material at a certian depth you stop and bring out the bit, just make sure the drill tourqe is set really low so you dont drill too wide. for glue any wood glue will be fine, all the glue does is providea seal to lock out water. next just line up the holes on your ski with the binding screws (its really easy if they are sticking out just a touch on the bottom of the binding) then drill the screws in lightly will the drill tourqe on really low, drill the screws in opposite, so like one top right, then bottom left or whatever. final step is to hand tighten the screws and check that the binding is flush. good luck (im a ski tech so this way works but i still would recomend asking a shop if you can borrow their jig and use thier bit or whatever)

sorry if that makes no sense pm me with any more questions

Dec 28 2009 6:08PM
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iFail
Posts: 2066 - Karma: 65
Save yourself the hard part and just have a GOOD shop only drill the holes where you want.  They should charge $15 or less for that, and you can glue in the bindings(waterproof wood glue) yourself easily.  If you know what the forward pressure should look like it takes about no skill.
Dec 28 2009 6:13PM
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SteezeBall
Posts: 350 - Karma: 12
Dont mount your own shit. At least if a shop screws it up there liable. If you mount it, its gonna pull out.
Dec 28 2009 6:37PM
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anti_bunk
Posts: 2629 - Karma: 329
4frnt made a tech talk about this. 
Dec 28 2009 6:40PM
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R.Fahey
Posts: 8602 - Karma: 539
I've mounted a few pair, but just urban skis so I wasn't hauling ass and hitting big things on them.

I basically just put the heal piece center on it's track, so if I messed up I had some leeway.  I put the toepiece on the ski, with the boot firmly in it, and the center mark of the boot where I wanted it (dead center).  drilled the toe, and did the same with the back.  I used a drill bit to just poke through the holes of the bindings and make a small mark on the ski where I wanted it.

basically i just eyeballed the whole thing, and have done it several times with Look/Rossi P12's and it's been solid/easy. 

I recommend just having it done for sure.  find someone reliable.
if not... go for it, but measure twice, drill once.  and make sure you tape off the bit with duct tape super tight so it doesn't do in too far, or just buy a binding bit.
Dec 28 2009 6:46PM
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fragglemuffin
Posts: 3312 - Karma: 444
just because you mount your own skis it doesnt mean your bindings will rip out.  Ive mounted all of my mine and my friends skis (about 6 pairs all together) and none have had a rip out yet.  if you use a real/right sized ski bit, and you use some kind of jig, it's easy as pie.  HOWEVER, i do not recommend doing it if you have to ask questions about how it's done.
Dec 28 2009 6:58PM
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LMPJibbin
Posts: 1607 - Karma: 17
http://www.vimeo.com/8246357
Dec 28 2009 7:22PM
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wiglaf
Posts: 4877 - Karma: 141
I just mounted a pair with a paper jig I got off TGR. They have paper jigs for pretty much any legit binding. Just triple check everything.
Dec 28 2009 7:23PM
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jca
Posts: 4172 - Karma: 6,310

Get the template for your bindings from this thread. http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153971

Use a 3.6mm bit, dont drill deeper than 9mm (put some tape on the bit so you dont go too far), using a drill press is a good idea to make sure the hole is plumb.

Basically just take the time to read that thread and practice a couple times on a 2x4 or something.

Ive mounted a couple pairs without problems, pm me if you have any more questions.

Dec 28 2009 7:31PM
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JosephStalin
Posts: 1673 - Karma: 100
why cant the general public buy ski jigs? it seems like that would solve all of our problems
Dec 28 2009 7:38PM
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no_steeze
Posts: 23992 - Karma: 4,273
i'm not gonna go through totally how to do it, but here's a list of materials you need. I have done several pairs of freehand mounts and found these tools completely necessary

if you have the template, it's very simple, all you need to do is center the template, line it up with your bsl, center punch the holes, and drill away

-power drill...duh
-3.6 x 9 mm bit for skis WITHOUT metal in the topsheet, 4.1 x 9mm for skis WITH metal...very important that you know beforehand
-masking tape
-measuring square
-calipers (digital preferred)
-pen
-sharpie
-yardstick
-at least 5 clamps
-a center punch (awl)
-#3 posidrive screwdriver
-wood glue
-strip of plexiglass
-a slightly larger drill bit than 4.1 for drilling holes into your plexiglass jig
-PATIENCE
-SHOP SKILL
-TIME
-a 2x4 to practice on

if you don't have a template, see aoe's video in the ski/binding maintenance thread in gear talk, it walks you through the flat out freehand method

if you do have a template that you got off tgr, it's very simple, just read the tutorial in post #77 in jondrums thread on TGR that has the templates

a quick tip i found helpful is while screwing in your bindings for the first time, start each screw 1-2 turns and then work them down together. if you put one screw in all at once it can completely offset the binding and you'll end up with a crooked mount

remember, measure three times, drill once

Dec 28 2009 8:06PM
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jerad
Posts: 3236 - Karma: 47
Awesome thanks for all of the advice! I know the easiest solution would be to find a reliable shop, but at this point I feel that learning myself would pay off in the long run (When paying $60-80 per mount). I'm going to start practicing on a 2x4, then on old pairs of skis, and then finally try to mount my own. I'll post results here in a few days when I'm done.
Dec 29 2009 11:15AM
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Candy
Posts: 1051 - Karma: 176
When you're drilling the holes, it's helpful to wrap duct tape around the drill bit where you want I to stop. It makes it a little harder to drill too deep. I haven't dimpled a ski yet doing this.
Dec 29 2009 12:02PM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
good luck !

i have 2 pair of trashed skis i use for rails and backyard.
i've remounted both skis myself and they're holding up perfectly!

and about your original ski mounting problem with screws protruding through the base...
thats not a big problem; any decent shop can fix it; they heat it up, flatten out the base again, then finish it off with a waxjob and a basegrind!
Dec 29 2009 12:58PM
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