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Ptex and bases.

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JahJahBinks
Posts: 3567 - Karma: 461

So I have a couple of small gashes on my Invaders. What kind of Ptex candle should I get that isnt too expensive? Can I use it on my topsheet as well? Also, is there a guide on NS that shows how to apply it? 

Nov 6 2009 7:56PM
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Peach.
Posts: 3879 - Karma: 933

Your topsheet? Absoulutly not.

Buy clear p-tex from your local shop.

Nov 6 2009 8:14PM
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SkierX
Posts: 16253 - Karma: 538
http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/ski+snowboard+base+repair.html

Black P-Tex adheres better than clear from my understanding.

Biggest thing is avoiding carbon buildup. It's fun rocking base repair though. Crack a frosty beer, toss on some tunes.
Nov 6 2009 8:34PM
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SkierX
Posts: 16253 - Karma: 538
Also, P-Tex is made for bases as it is the same material ski bases are made from.
Nov 6 2009 8:41PM
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Atypical
Posts: 1339 - Karma: 45
I find it helps to let the ptex sit after you melt it in for a while, then do a rewax of the whole base.
Nov 6 2009 8:43PM
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JahJahBinks
Posts: 3567 - Karma: 461
Can I get it at a hardware store and is there a certain type I should get?
Nov 7 2009 3:43PM
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SkierX
Posts: 16253 - Karma: 538
Ski shop is the only place to get it.
Nov 7 2009 3:49PM
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Balto
Posts: 25985 - Karma: 4,404
and this should be in the sticky
Nov 7 2009 3:56PM
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thegreyarea
Posts: 3265 - Karma: 34
I searched youtube for a good ptex repair video, but there aren't any. Every video I found shows people lighting the ptex candle on fire, which creates carbon deposits and drastically weakens the bond.

I need to re-ptex my skis. I'll make you a video and post it here.
Nov 7 2009 4:16PM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
is there any way to ptex without lighting it? (without specialized ptex guns....)

what i do: light it, let it drip till all the burnt stuff is away, then i let it drip one drop at a time, as close to the ski as possible, multiple layers; then press my metal scraper onto it so it cools down quickly (thermo shock) then i let it cool down further and scrape it with my steel scraper (also works with sharp plexi ones....)

i have no idea if this is THE way or a good/bad way but it works for me...


Nov 7 2009 4:22PM
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thegreyarea
Posts: 3265 - Karma: 34
I was overzealous when I made my last post. If your ski isn't core shot or near the edge, burning ptex in with a lighter is ok. It will create a sufficient enough bond. When the gouge is at a critical spot, such as against your edge, ptex should be melted (with a torch, heat gun, or ptex gun) to create the best bond. Ptex is more likely to fall out next to your edge when its burned in vs. melted in. Imagine losing ptex on a run and smacking your edge against a rock. It's more likely to rip out if your ptex has fallen out.

Pressing a metal scraper over the ptex is the right thing to do.
Nov 7 2009 4:31PM
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MEGAZORD
Posts: 4531 - Karma: -7
If its on the edge, ill use a ptex that has an epoxy built in.
Nov 7 2009 7:46PM
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Casey
Posts: 7875 - Karma: 24,674

If the base shots are shallow enough, they can be best filled with wax after a good basegrind, for coreshots, you should put epoxy in the gash first so that the ptex adheres and stays in place better. it will make your repair last longer.

Nov 7 2009 10:33PM
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ReetsAdeets
Posts: 1531 - Karma: 611
I like to use black ptex because a lot of times the clear gets a little dirty, and then is just a nasty brown color. The black doesnt match the ski, but is at least clean. Just my preference . And everybody above has already said how to apply and where to but
Nov 8 2009 12:44AM
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MEGAZORD
Posts: 4531 - Karma: -7
If you do it correctly, the clear comes out clear even just dripping it.
Nov 8 2009 2:06AM
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doGelyst
Posts: 2492 - Karma: 509
with clear, you gotta let it burn a little bit until the bead is clear, and its crucial that you keep it close to the spot you are filling. If you have it too high / far away, you will get the black crap.
Nov 8 2009 2:35AM
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I_Am_Mod
Posts: 13214 - Karma: 3,753
If it's really critical and it's not on my slalom skis i even dare to just use 100% epoxy on my base, that way i'm sure it's bombproof and as long as it isnt huge you won't even feel the difference in friction...
Nov 8 2009 5:21AM
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Tucks
Posts: 2120 - Karma: 161
If you have a core shot you will probably need a base weld that are usually performed at ski shops by experienced shop techs. However, if you are just going to be performing a p-tex repair there are a few things you should know.
1.) info can be found here: http://www.harbskisystems.com/tuning/repair.htm
-if you are using clear ptex and don't want carbon deposits to show; or want a stronger bond then use a butane torch and not matches

Nov 8 2009 10:31AM
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dmc12380
Posts: 3545 - Karma: 792
any advice on how to avoid air bubbles?
Jan 23 2012 5:11PM
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