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My internal light meter is a liar

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RileySnyderPhoto
Posts: 688 - Karma: 1,451
I feel like my camera's light meter lies to me. Shots look fine on the camera but once I put them on the computer I have to tweak them a lot to look right again. How accurate are the internal ones? Should I save up and get an external one?

I have a Canon 40D if that makes any difference
Apr 26 2009 10:48AM
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chipkalback
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 30
it doesn't lie, it's just not as accurate as using a handheld meter. i shoot with a 40D as well and usually try to shoot around 1/3 stop over ambient and i'm usually pretty happy with the results when i sit down to edit. try it out and see what you think. also, make sure you don't have your lcd turned up excessively high or down low, because obviously that will affect what you perceive to be under or over exposed too. if you're thinking about getting a light meter, i would check out the sekonic L-358. it's gotten great reviews everywhere i've read about it and it's really easy to use. hope i helped-

http://www.sekonic.com/products/Sekonic%20L-358%20FLASH%20MASTER.asp
Apr 26 2009 12:13PM
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Aenigma
Posts: 11256 - Karma: 424
What exactly are you having to tweak?  If you shoot RAW the camera will generally give you a preview of how it processes the jpeg image, so it will look slightly different once you get it on your computer.  If that's not the case, then I don't really know what to tell you right now. 
Apr 26 2009 3:22PM
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chipkalback
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 30
i'm guessing he's having to tweak exposure/brightness/individual levels
Apr 26 2009 4:40PM
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cobra_commander
Posts: 16909 - Karma: 4,686
use your histogram not your light meter.
Apr 26 2009 6:08PM
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*Fujative*
Posts: 8554 - Karma: 183
basically what he said. however i wouldnt recommend getting a light meter.
I had a 358 and it was great. however, outside of a studio the 358 is trash, for the most part. It is only a general light meter for that fact that it will do whatever is hitting it. the 758 has a viewfinder or a scope on it for distances. the 358 was great for studio because you could plug the strobe pack right into it and have it fire.
Apr 26 2009 6:41PM
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ProducerXXX
Posts: 1776 - Karma: 13
Bingo.
Apr 26 2009 10:06PM
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ChronicLines
Posts: 951 - Karma: 61
358 or bust.

Incident > Reflected, any day for me.
Apr 26 2009 11:16PM
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freezed
Posts: 12973 - Karma: 500
especially for skiing photos...have the histogram on your preview display thingy.
Apr 26 2009 11:24PM
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Dick_Squandel
Posts: 737 - Karma: 10
Also it could be your monitor, I know that shots look quite a bit different switching from my macbook screen to my Gateway monitor on my mac pro. Try Calibrating your monitor.
Apr 27 2009 8:47AM
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dergblerp
Posts: 1303 - Karma: 77
I feel I have the opposite problem with my 40D. It looks wrong on the screen but looks perfect on my computer. I don't really know what to tell you other than maybe over expose a bit. that seems like the simplest solution...
Apr 27 2009 8:51AM
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chipkalback
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 30
^^^ super important to do IMO. i have mine setup to D65 , although i've heard either D50 or D65 is fine for editing photo's, D65 gives you a whiter white vs. a D50 yellower white, hence why i went with D65

however i'd really love to get this: http://spyder.datacolor.com/product-mc-s3pro.php
Apr 27 2009 11:32AM
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