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Official Ski/Binding Maintenance Thread

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no_steeze
Posts: 23992 - Karma: 4,272
As all of us know, it is very important to know how to use/maintain your ski equipment, so my hope for this thread is to have everyone post videos or picture tutorials on how to do various forms of ski maintenance, whether it's adjusting bindings, waxing skis, dulling edges, anything, but just so you know where to look when you have basic questions about this sort of thing

I'll put 2 videos in the OP:

How to Take Apart/Bend FKS
by me

How to Wax Your Skis
by mrstskier

Next up just a few tips:

When you get home from skiing you should do 3 things:
1. take your skis inside and leave them there
2. wipe your bases and edges with a cloth or rag
3. pull your skis apart and lean them against a wall with the bases sticking up

Now it's your turn, post tips, stories, tutorials, anything relating to ski maintenance because it can greatly increase the life and performance of your gear


**DISCLAIMER**
A LOT OF THESE THINGS REQUIRE BASIC SHOP SKILL, PROPER TOOLS, AND EXPERIENCE. DO EVERYTHING AT YOUR OWN RISK AND MAKE SURE YOU ARE ABLE TO EXECUTE ALL OF THESE DIFFERENT PROCESSES. THINK TWICE BEFORE YOU RISK THE LIFE OF YOUR GEAR AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING

This goes for advice giving as well, make sure you possess knowledge of the subject you're providing advice for because it can jeopardize people's safety if you give them false tips. So either make sure you know what you're saying or put in your post that you're just kinda guessing
Apr 21 2009 10:27PM
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Dwight_Schrute
Posts: 579 - Karma: 18
Should I trust this wax?

http://www.amazon.com/Glide-Snow-Riding-Hot-Wax/dp/B002EZV01W/ref=pd_sbs_sg_2

I'm not competing or anything, so no, I'm not going to spend 60 bucks on wax.
Jan 8 2011 3:03PM
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phelps
Posts: 636 - Karma: 60
Hey, just wanted to get some input on whether or not my skis are seriously railed/if it will really get in the way of jibs... Thanks +K for good answers

Click for larger imageClick for larger image
Jan 11 2011 1:20AM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
does any one know the weight of rossignol freeski100 l bindings?
Jan 14 2011 8:54PM
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Canuker
Posts: 4730 - Karma: 165

Honestly this thread is really long and i dont want to sift through the whole thing.

I have a couple questions.

1- Whats a good cheap all temperature wax for me to use? I dont need anything fancy, just something that will protect my bases and work for multiple temperatures/ snow conditions.

2- Ive had my invaders for 2 and a half seasons. Im going to be brutally honest ive only waxed them about 3 times. I never realised the importance of it. Is it too late for my bases? Im planning on purchasing and iron and stuff. SHould i even bother with these or just wait until i buy new skis to really take car of them.

3- Is it worth it to get a cheap tuning kit? like the dakine one. Or is it more worth it to buy some wax, a 2 in 1 brush and an iron seperate.

4-If im too cheap to get two brushes, and i have to choose one. What brush should i get? Bronze or soft nylon.

Thanks alot!

Also if anyone has old tuning gear theyd like to sell, give me a shout!

Jan 16 2011 11:34PM
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YooperSteeze
Posts: 1248 - Karma: 45
1. I use Dominator all-temp, I find it works well. You really can't go wrong with Swix or Toko though.

2. Wax them, wax them, wax them! Saturate the bases. They won't be as good as new bases properly maintained, but the sure as hell will be better than they are now.

3. Dakine irons are just rebranded swix irons, I have one, they work pretty nice. Price out an iron, wax and a brush separately and as a kit. Go to local shops, support them if you can, even if its a little bit more than online.

4. Get bronze, that is all you really need unless you are racing.
Jan 17 2011 1:05PM
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Canuker
Posts: 4730 - Karma: 165

So i landed front seat on a 180 yesterday with my rossignol world cup bindings (fks) and i ejected ( honestly probably the 4th time ive ever ejected with these bindings ) and when i went to get my ski my break wouldnt lift completely when i clicked my binding in. It wouldnt lift past the bottom of the ski.

I took it all apart and realized the break had bent forward when i landed front seat.

To fix this can i just stick them in a vice and bend them back?

Jan 20 2011 4:29PM
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YooperSteeze
Posts: 1248 - Karma: 45
Be happy they didn't rip off. Only thing you can do is throw them in a vice, grab a pipe and bend them back, and hope they don't break. If they break, then they can't brake. Bad pun. Had to.
Jan 22 2011 4:02PM
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zahava
Posts: 7791 - Karma: 12,039
1. I really like Holmenkol's beta red. Its awesome for our everyday conditions in ottawa. Its ment for -4C to -14C (snow temp), and old or coarse (manmade) snow. I think its about $20 for a decent amount.

2. HOT SCRAPE!!!!!

Steps to clean your bases:
1. Brass brush
2. Fiber Tex (smooths out all the base fibres that the brass brush picked up)
3. Wax with a warm really soft wax (yellow)
4. Scrape right after you wax
5. Brush with a softer brush (horse hair, nylon)

The point of a hot scrape is too clean out your bases. Don't use base cleaner, its chemicals and its not great for your base.

Thomas has a great vid on how to hot scrape, skip to about 9:30: http://vimeo.com/17832964

3. Depends on your budget, whats in the kit your looking at.

4. Get a swix mini brass brush (its like $20 at T&L) compared to $40-50 for a full sized one. Use this and some fibre tex before you how wax. Then get a nylon or horse hair brush for after you scrape (about $20 for one). Both are really good and almost neccesary to have. If you really can only afford one, get the brass brush and some fibre tex. All the leftover unabsorbed wax will come off after a couple runs if you don't brush with a nylon brush.

The guy above raised a really good point. SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL SHOP, especially cus i work there.
Jan 23 2011 1:58PM
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Canuker
Posts: 4730 - Karma: 165
http://www.skichalet.com/Dakine_Super_Tune_Kit_p/3466054010700.htm

looks pretty legit to me

but yea ill most likely buy from t and l

Jan 23 2011 2:23PM
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BITS
Posts: 1808 - Karma: 866
threads
Feb 8 2011 2:57PM
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james6345789
Posts: 4763 - Karma: 467
Click for larger imageYesterday coming out of a box, my ski came off and rolled under me. The plastic part that covers the brake broke completely off. I can still get my foot in, but the brakes don't come down if my ski comes off. Can this be fixed? do I need a new binding? does rossignol's warranty cover this?

+K FOR ANSWERS
Feb 11 2011 6:44PM
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james6345789
Posts: 4763 - Karma: 467
Was it pretty cheap to fix?
Feb 12 2011 12:19PM
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james6345789
Posts: 4763 - Karma: 467
Was it pretty cheap to fix?
Feb 12 2011 12:21PM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
This is going to sound dumb but i would appreciate some answers (+k)My skis are 114-75-103 and i got them mounted "center" at one of my local shops last year and it doesn't look dead center,does anyone know why?is it because of the shape of my ski?
Feb 13 2011 4:37PM
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arandomname
Posts: 1989 - Karma: 18
They probably mounted core center.
Feb 13 2011 5:36PM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
could you explain what core center is?
Feb 13 2011 7:38PM
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arandomname
Posts: 1989 - Karma: 18
It's where the core is the least wide, and since your ski is asymettrical, core center is not going to be the direct center between the tip and the tail.
Feb 13 2011 8:07PM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
okay thanks :D
Feb 13 2011 9:44PM
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Yinzer
Posts: 1011 - Karma: 73
Yeah your skis are railed, but they aren't ruined. You can take them to the shop tell them whats wrong and they should be able to stone grind them down. but if your just sliding rails it probably won't make a difference. it really matters when it comes it going fast and maintaining control, you won't haha.
Feb 18 2011 2:24PM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
i would think that would screw you over when jibbing,no?
Feb 18 2011 3:14PM
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Patroni
Posts: 121 - Karma: -5

Taking bindings apart=void warranty

bottom line kids. . . . don't do it

Feb 22 2011 5:21PM
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Gstrong
Posts: 4776 - Karma: 519
my sth 12 toe piece is rattling like a bitch i don't know whats up?
Feb 24 2011 1:14AM
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.cam.
Posts: 1852 - Karma: 48
How do I know if my bases are burned?
Feb 24 2011 7:55PM
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Kayess
Posts: 357 - Karma: 11
this and also how hot should i have my iron, just hot enough to melt or what?
Feb 25 2011 8:24PM
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arandomname
Posts: 1989 - Karma: 18
As hot as the iron should be when you're melting the wax.
Feb 25 2011 9:45PM
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omIV
Posts: 1950 - Karma: 306
There should be an iron temp on the wax box...but a good rule for when you're starting out is if the wax is giving off smoke on the iron, turn it down until it isn't, and if the wax doesn't melt, turn it up. You get the hang of it pretty fast.
Mar 4 2011 2:16PM
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james6345789
Posts: 4763 - Karma: 467
They are 2,320 grams
Mar 6 2011 10:43PM
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GayWolf420
Posts: 37390 - Karma: 120,139
Quick question. I pretty much have all the essentials needed in a waxing/tuning kid minus the wax. Currently I have odds and ends of left over swix wax from when my sisters raced. I have very little left of the swix universal pink wax aswell as the blue and red ones. What types of waxes would you guys reccomend to start rebuilding my collection of wax? Its currently spring time here in utah which means most of the days are going to be slush filled park laps with a few pow days if that helps......
Mar 15 2011 2:45AM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
thanks
Mar 15 2011 9:19AM
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Mr_pretzel
Posts: 4616 - Karma: 1,289
Do you want temp specific wax?

If so i would pick up some red and yellow Ch wax.
Mar 15 2011 12:48PM
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GayWolf420
Posts: 37390 - Karma: 120,139
Yeah preferrably. Might need some warmer snow condition wax for the rest of the season, though.
Mar 15 2011 1:18PM
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Mr_pretzel
Posts: 4616 - Karma: 1,289
Yellow is the hottest.
Red: http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2717&MainPage_6117=6138:30116::0:6118:9:::0:0

Yellow: http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2717&MainPage_6117=6138:30125::0:6118:11:::0:0
Mar 15 2011 1:20PM
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Rossberger
Posts: 768 - Karma: 168
Pretty sure this hasn't been answered yet and it's sort of a stupid question but, does detuning affect your carving at all since you're dulling the edges?
Mar 20 2011 9:57AM
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arandomname
Posts: 1989 - Karma: 18
Yeah, it does.
Mar 20 2011 3:58PM
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RudyGarmisch
Posts: 25443 - Karma: 13,844
Yes. More specifically, detuning the tips and tails of your skis, especially to and a little past the contact point (I say its essential for any rockered ski having ridden a few that are improperly done), will make them hook up less and carve normally. Detuning underfoot, you're really only taking out 10-15% of your overall effective edge, it doesnt effect the ski that terribly... unless I suppose you're on a very small ski or on a ski thats got like no running length because of large rocker sections.
Mar 20 2011 6:32PM
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Rossberger
Posts: 768 - Karma: 168
Thanks a bunch, I think i'll avoid detuning as i care more about carving than rails.
Mar 20 2011 8:04PM
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BroNamath
Posts: 113 - Karma: 21
Get a pot and melt them all together, thats what i do and the world cup racers do. its the fastest wax known to man
Mar 24 2011 1:53AM
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LAME.
Posts: 5795 - Karma: 2,449
Without this, my FKS would be toast.
Apr 11 2011 9:41PM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
Im thinking of getting a second pair of skis,what are some good skis for me im 5'7",140 pounds and i would like to ride some drops and free ride obstacles
Apr 11 2011 9:49PM
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Mr_pretzel
Posts: 4616 - Karma: 1,289
Wrong thread.

And you need to give more info.
Apr 12 2011 5:51AM
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sskier
Posts: 289 - Karma: 26
i know its the wrong thred but i was here and figured i could get some suggestions
Apr 12 2011 7:51AM
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Mr_pretzel
Posts: 4616 - Karma: 1,289
make your own thread. Or put it in the unthreadworthy thread.
Apr 12 2011 9:06AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
Legend Pros, 06/07 or older.
Apr 12 2011 11:13AM
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Pastie
Posts: 676 - Karma: 146
Is there a way to buff out chips on the topsheet?
Apr 12 2011 11:50PM
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blackoutbill
Posts: 2918 - Karma: 282
The top sheet of my moments has delamed a bit at the tip. Can I just glue it and then clamp it down? What kind of glue/epoxy should I use?
Apr 17 2011 5:49PM
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YooperSteeze
Posts: 1248 - Karma: 45
Marine epoxy would be best.
Apr 18 2011 4:49PM
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razors-chaz
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 1,250
Other than hot waxing a couple of times a season how often would you recommend getting a full shop service/ doing a proper base cleaner job on them?
Apr 27 2011 5:38PM
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Rossberger
Posts: 768 - Karma: 168
Couldn't decide whether to post my question here or in a thread. Anyway,I have ar7s(Not symmetrical) with fks 140s. I'm planning on doing 60% park, 40% all mountain, and being on the east when I do decide to go all mountain I want to be able to carve fine with no worries. But when I'm in the park, I want to be able to ride out switch fine. Do I need the center mount because I heard it affects your all mountain performance for the worse? Also, if I had it mounted at -2.5(factory recc), would I still be able to ride out switch fine. I'm just talking riding out switch, I don't plan on doing switch groomers or anything. So -2.5 or center, or somewhere in between?
May 7 2011 12:08AM
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RudyGarmisch
Posts: 25443 - Karma: 13,844
Probably okay with recc, but if you want to play it safe, -1.5
May 7 2011 2:10AM
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Rossberger
Posts: 768 - Karma: 168
Yeah I was thinking of just going in between so thanks. But how does a 2.5cm difference affect riding switch? And do you think -1.5 will still be fine for all mountain riding?
May 7 2011 1:19PM
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