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Im selling my truck and im trying to pick up one of the two cars above. Wondering what you guys have heard about them likes dislikes and what not.
And if anyone is interested in a Nissan Titan pm. me and ill give you some pics and info.
sick man thanks..it seems like you know your shit one question, tomorrow im hopefully going to pick this thing up and my cousin has the same one. im wondering if i bring his cobb access port with me when i take it on a test drive, will it be able to flash it enough to get the a/f ratio and the boost cut its having fixed or at leased overide it enough to see if that the only problem.. because it cuts boost at 3500 rpm and the rpm's dont go above that.. from just that i can tell its running rich as fuck but below that rpm it runs like its brand new.
i really have no idea what your talking about you should probably never post something to this caliber of stupidity again.
o and i have a nissan titan, selling it for an sti or evo... just so you can catch up lol
ahh its cool dude no worries ... this is where you drop it and stop posting in this thread because your making yourself look like a dumb fuck.
WARNING: VERY LONG POST WITH MIND NUMBING TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE (geekiness)
hhhHHHOOOOkai, so, subaru- What they do to their cars is they fit this uber ridiculously thick anti-sway bar on the front. This may sound like a good thing, but on a dry road it makes the thing understeer like an integra fitted with a ford 427 V8, annoying as hell. This is because it stiffens the suspension too much for the amount of ride height they have on the thing, making the outside tire compress and distort its shape while the inside tire is almost off the ground, severely limiting it's true cornering potential. If you watch sti vs. evo videos you'll see that the sti corners very flat with the nose very far off the ground compared to the evo. I'm not saying this is the end of the world however because this characteristic is ONLY a disadvantage on the road. On snow or gravel a stock sti will kick the stock evo's ass once you have the back end hanging out rally style, also the differential system is much better for driving in a high speed, low grip situation since it isn't constantly shifting the torque around.
mitsubishi- Compared to most cars an evo has a very soft front end. Since the ride is high compared to other cars of its caliber this is a necessity for fast times around a race track since stiff suspension will give you the leverage problems explained above. On top of this is the differential system.Like the sti it probably has a center differential that lets you select where you want the torque to be biased(back or front), however I don't think it's as customizable as the subarus which has actual percentage settings rather than the crappy tarmac, gravel or snow settings. This is where the similarities end however, the evo has this yaw control system which shifts power to the outside wheels while cornering(like a tank), this gives it the capibility to "drift" just by flooring the gas and keeping the steering wheel straight(cheating imho). All this makes the evo much faster around a track than the sti. These same characteristics become a disadvantage in low grip situations. Even if you have the differentials set right the softness of the suspension makes the car way too nervous in a slide where as the sti gracefully swoops by.
Conclusion: all the top gear videos and such only give the characteristics the cars have on dry roads which is where the evo cheats and the sti doesn't try. In slippery environments the sti excels. In price I think the sti is a little bit cheaper, I may be wrong. I don't think you can get an sti with a semi-automatic gearbox but those are for negetive talent panzies who are just going to crash the thing anyways accelerating natural selection in the process. The sti has a better sounding engine than the evo imo, with very minimal turbo lag.
Considering other 4wd cars: Subarus are the most common and the most reliable in this department, its the safe way to go. The vw r32 is kinda cool, but only the old ones which have a proper manual not the dual clutch crap which are bought by napolian syndrome sissies who have inferiority complexes and feel the need to shift a tenth of a second faster because they know they have zero driving skills. Audi makes some good stuff if you're into more luxery than driving excitment. The old S4 had a tubocharged engine that made about 250hp, but I don't know if it was sold in america, it would be very interesting.
believe it or not I think I missed some stuff, if I did I'll remember it later(breeeeeeath)
This may turn into an epic threadjacking, but I'll do my best
An anti sway bar is a torsion bar connected to each wheel. When one wheel goes over a bump and is lifted, the stiffness of the bar makes the other wheel lift up as well, usually to a lesser extent. It takes more force to twist the bar a greater distance, same with the springs therefore the unit we use to rate both of these supension components is Newtons per Meter. If an anti sway bar is rated at 100 Newtons per meter it's going to take about about 20 pounds of force to twist the bar one meter along the circumference of the circle that is created by the bar's control arm. This doesn't seem like a very strong force, but if you fitted a 100n/m sway bar to your car it would probably understeer like crazy unless you had a very heavy car or tires that could withstand about one and a half g's of cornering force, I would be willing to guess that an STI has an anti sway bar rate of about 40n/m. Besides, I'm only talking about EFFECTIVE resistance that the bar gives to the wheels being at different heights. The force of the springs and anti roll bar conflict thus limiting this effective resistance.
This brings me to springs, they are measured with the same unit as they are essentially a coiled up torsion bar. Springs do most of the work when limiting suspension movement. I would guess that an STI would have the front spring rates at about 50n/m, therefor the ratio between the spring and anti sway bar rates would be 5:4 and it would mean that you would have a sum of 90n/m keeping the outside wheel out of your wheel well(bottoming out). This kind of ratio makes the initial directional change of the car very responsive and predictable, but the drawback is the body is riding so high that it has an unneccesary amount of lateral force making more weight transfer to the outside making the amount of weight over the front tires more uneven then they have to be, at this point the steering feel will go light and you'll notice the car going closer and closer towards the outside of the corner attempting to make friends with the trees or cars in the opposit lane, this is understeer. A ratio that would be more like 2:1 in the springs favor would make the handling sluggish, but you would have a lot more grip mid corner. This is the kind of ratio the evo has, on top of that there is probably a sum of about 70 n/m rather than 90n/m, this setting is better when the front tires do more of the cornering work than the rears.
The advantages and disadvantages of these settings can be almost reversed in low grip situations depending on driving style. The subaru will destoy the evo in a snowy corner if driven in a way which shifts the cornering burden to the rear end which has softer settings and a spring rate to anti sway bar rate ratio of about 3:1 or 4:1. The soft front of the evo still makes more grip but it's a lot less predictable and very intermittent, this is probably mostly because the shock absorbers(or dampers) probably aren't set up properly.
I may have made a mistake on the actual forces, but the principles seem to be there.I can explain shock absorbers too in another post as well if anybody wants to read it.
sounds like a dope setup bro.. if you got a second can you read mine and glrunner's conversation and see if you can't shed some light on what may be wrong..
Spark Notes: the Sti i found goes limp at 3400 rpm, the car has been modded, wondering what it needs.
what i think is it needs a flash from the suby dealership or there is a few vacume/fuel lines that are fugd up on it so the a/f ratio is off and thats what throwing it into limp mode
