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October, 2024

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Sth 12, sth 14 or sth 16

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Teneighty_Freak
Posts: 58 - Karma: 10
 im getting the 09 dumonts,,,

i weight 165
5.10.



help me out...... i need somethign that will last....
Sep 18 2008 9:04PM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
probably only are going to need the 12.. I dont see how you'd go higher than a 10 or 11 Din...
Sep 18 2008 9:23PM
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Teneighty_Freak
Posts: 58 - Karma: 10
im kinda aming for the 16.... the din is 9 - 16 i believe....... and mine are probebly gona be set at 10....


money isnt an issue.......

so more help guys:D
Sep 18 2008 9:37PM
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no_steeze
Posts: 23992 - Karma: 4,272
if they're set at 10 there's no point in going for the 16, you should go for 14 at most but there's no point buying a 9-16 if you're riding at 10
Sep 18 2008 9:41PM
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Moisty_Goat
Posts: 601 - Karma: 31
this question is a little unrelated but im sure your wondering it aswell,
does anyone know how the weight is on the sth 12s? i heard there not super light but are they heavy?
Sep 18 2008 9:44PM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
You would not need anything over the 14.

the 16 would probably be overkill.
Sep 18 2008 9:44PM
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smuggs
Posts: 6561 - Karma: 1,375
uhhhh what do you mean there is no point of getting a 9-16 binding if you are on 10????

if your spring is compressed less (lower din) its going to last alot longer........so its actually the exact opposite, if you are looking for your shit to last more than a season or 2 reliability wise get the binding where you are on a lower din setting.
Sep 19 2008 12:12AM
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eurotune2
Posts: 1450 - Karma: 10
^^ i have heard the contrary, i heard running your bindings at around half of the available din is where they are meant to be run which will enhance longevity and relability
Sep 19 2008 12:44AM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
Not really, because then the binding spring cant work to its intended use.

Springs in bindings are pretty damn durable.. they arent going to be what breaks in a binding. There are bindings on the market that are 16 years old and still idemnifiable.

If you have the spring wound up right, and set it even at the lower end of the middle of its din range (for example, if its a 6-14 din, setting it at 9) it will give it more ability to work within its best performance range, and allow the spring to sit correctly.

I dont know. thats what i've been told anyway.. could be talking out of my ass, but I still dont see what the point is in getting such a high din binding when you're not even maxing out on a 12 din..
Sep 19 2008 4:44AM
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Matteskier
Posts: 66 - Karma: 16
Sth 14 DRIVER and not just the regular sth 14 with the z-serie toe. The driver has the same toe piece as STH 16 and is more solid(more metal and 4 screws that connects the binding, the other one has only 3). A few grams heavier than the the sth 14.

12 DIn will be to low if you want something to progress with, the din 6-14 is enough for almost everything at your weight.
Sep 19 2008 6:12AM
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FNJ
Posts: 3026 - Karma: 110
why is there no sth 14 DRIVER on sollys site? or am i missing something?
Sep 19 2008 9:13AM
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smuggs
Posts: 6561 - Karma: 1,375
if you have a spring sitting on your table its going to remain alot more elastic than a spring thats been under pressure, your spring can wear out as fast as the componets of your binding, especially if its under more force.

go to a hobby store or some shit, get a few tiny springs, leave one out under no force, then put a few under random heavy objects, see which one remains more lively.

plus the spring on the 16 binding is going to be more burly than the spring on a smaller din binding. since you can see the spring go look at the jester vs the baron. and since you can see you change the din on the spring watch what happens to it.


Sep 19 2008 9:26AM
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PacificRimJob
Posts: 24725 - Karma: 29,944
Here is what I think about your puny hobby store spring - ima take out the spring of my marker griffons that I just proformed, and smash the shit out of those things.

you're comparing completely different springs there man. A simple wire spring is nothing like that in the back of a binding.
Sep 19 2008 2:08PM
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baseballski03
Posts: 429 - Karma: 13
if you really buy a quality binding the spring (no mattter which binding you get) should outlast your need for the binding. not to mention the if your spring does wear like some people have said then theoretically you would have to periodically tighten down your din to keep the same retention with any spring. which i haven't heard of people having to do that and it seems like that could become quite a dangerous game unless you had the equipment to always test the force it took to release and could keep that constant. if money is not an issue than it comes down to personal preference with regards to weight of the binding, preference in toe piece design and the actual size of the rider. for a more agressive rider i personally would not buy the 12 but i have been told that different salomon team members are riding both the 14 and the 16.
Sep 20 2008 1:31AM
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Hertz
Posts: 238 - Karma: 30
i have 10's on my ar6's
Sep 20 2008 2:16PM
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skiP.E.I.
Posts: 7821 - Karma: 21,848
I've heard that higher DIN = more durability, which would be good for Salomon bindings. 90% of the Salomon bindings that me or people I know have are 10 or 12 DIN max, bacuase those are all they seem to sell in shops in the maritimes, and they just seem to break if you weigh more than 130 pounds or so and ski aggressively, hit small to normal rails and small to medium sized jumps. My Brother got Look PX12s online, used them every day for a season (70+ days) and they are still in great shape, even after the TMs they are mounted on are delamming and the edges are falling out. So I wouldn't get Salomon bindings anyway, but if you're going to, I would say get the 14s, it does seem like it might be overkill to get the 16s though. sorry that kind of turned into a rant against Salomon bindings.
Sep 20 2008 2:48PM
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