Answering to binding adjustment question: the memo

I don't want to be that guy but I'm going to be that guy.

This has been stickied for 11 years but the formatting is absolute trash. Lots of typos too... Why can't a mod fix the spelling/grammar errors and formatting? As long as the information being shared doesn't change it should only help. I'd hate visit a website for the first time and all of the pinned posts looked like this.

Okay pretty aware that this is a noob question, but I weigh 140 pounds and am 5’6. I’m on pivot 12’s mounted to 177 cm skis. I have no real knowledge about dins other than mine are set to 6, however they pop off nearly every time I butter. Because of this I want to adjust them higher but I don’t want to go to high and destroy my knees, does anyone have any advice or opinion on a ballpark of where I should set them?

T1811Okay pretty aware that this is a noob question, but I weigh 140 pounds and am 5’6. I’m on pivot 12’s mounted to 177 cm skis. I have no real knowledge about dins other than mine are set to 6, however they pop off nearly every time I butter. Because of this I want to adjust them higher but I don’t want to go to high and destroy my knees, does anyone have any advice or opinion on a ballpark of where I should set them?

You can generally have heel dins higher than the toes if you are a good skier and keep your knees foreword. I have strong legs but I weigh like 160lb with toes on 10ish and heels on 11, sometimes 12. If you are gonna adjust your dins, I recommend not moving more than half a din at a time, especially if you don't know exactly what you're doing.

There is so much conflicting info in this thread. So many people say to do what the shop tech says but I'm 6'3" 205 and charge pretty hard and found myself coming out of my bindings wayyyy more often than I would like, honestly making my risk for injury even higher due to ejecting all the time. I guess what a lot of people in here are getting at is that you should adjust as you see necessary from where the shop guys say to put it but I feel like just outright saying "Don't change to any other din other than what the guy who mounts your skis says to do no matter what" is poor advice.

DayManThere is so much conflicting info in this thread. So many people say to do what the shop tech says but I'm 6'3" 205 and charge pretty hard and found myself coming out of my bindings wayyyy more often than I would like, honestly making my risk for injury even higher due to ejecting all the time. I guess what a lot of people in here are getting at is that you should adjust as you see necessary from where the shop guys say to put it but I feel like just outright saying "Don't change to any other din other than what the guy who mounts your skis says to do no matter what" is poor advice.

Exactly this. The advice should be, "Don't fuck with your DIN unless you know what you're doing, and take responsibility for your own actions if you injure yourself or someone else after misadjusting your own bindings."

Hey friend! I have a pair of k2 public enemy skis that have been drilled four times and was wondering if the fifth time with truly hurt? I would appreciate any information you have.

Je55ieHey friend! I have a pair of k2 public enemy skis that have been drilled four times and was wondering if the fifth time with truly hurt? I would appreciate any information you have.

Gonna need more info. Can you attach pics? What bindings do you want to put on the ski, and what has it already been drilled for? As long as you're careful to avoid putting four holes in a horizontal line across the ski, and keep all the holes at least 8mm from each other centre-to-centre, you should be fine. There are plenty of other threads on this same topic, do a quick search.

DayManThere is so much conflicting info in this thread. So many people say to do what the shop tech says but I'm 6'3" 205 and charge pretty hard and found myself coming out of my bindings wayyyy more often than I would like, honestly making my risk for injury even higher due to ejecting all the time. I guess what a lot of people in here are getting at is that you should adjust as you see necessary from where the shop guys say to put it but I feel like just outright saying "Don't change to any other din other than what the guy who mounts your skis says to do no matter what" is poor advice.

Just saw this thread now and saw your post. Almost guarantee that either your Anti-Friction Device(AFD) under your boot toe is too low or your forward pressure isn’t correct if you’re pre-releasing when your DIN is correct.

Afraid there are lots of techs out there that seem to miss important steps and I’d recommend always checking the AFD height and forward pressure before ever raising the DIN.

A critical step often missed by techs when testing AFD height is to put pressure on the back of the boot to try and “wheelie” the toe up and THEN test the space under the toe/AFD with a business card/.5mm spacer. The AFD should be raised until until there is resistance in moving the card/spacer under the toe while still pushing the back of the boot back to eliminate any slack. Low AFD is a very common cause of pre-releases.

Forward pressure adjustment is usually a bolt on the back of the heel piece is adjusted till flush(Marker bindings) or until the edge of the heel lines up in a scribed area above the heel track(Tyrolia Attack). Another common cause of pre-releases but usually not as improperly adjusted as AFD height is.

Test the AFD height and look at the heel to confirm forward pressure settings and I bet one or both are off.

Good luck!

There are plenty of people who are knowledgeable and not certified shop techs. Aside from legit nobody should give advice on bindings other than what the chart says (and I know you all ride higher dins than the chart says) it is always, even in a shop, up to the end user to set their requested din. Most go off the sheet but a lot of people know what they're doing otherwise and it's up to the end user not to be a kook. ie don't lie about your boot size it doesn't impress the ladies it just makes ski techs laugh at your lying ass, and don't add unnecessary #'s to your din, it doesn't add inches to your dick just years to your sentence

quebecfreestylerOk I,ll make it short and clear: if you are not a certified shop tech or know exactly waht you are talking about, dont anser to any of the binding adjustment questions.

If you lead someone in the wrong direction, you may be responsible for screwing hisknees and maybe other parts of his body big time.

HI,

Quick question, Ordered 100mm skis (Line blend) and 110 bindings (Griffon Marker 13), the question is should I downsize on brake width? or I'll be fine with 110 b on 100 ski's? will mount -2;

Obviously, shop who selling - told me ok, and will mount at the local REI, while they can say ok, not ok I do not know and do not want to waste time g back and forth

Google saying I'll be ok as well, however previous experience I have only 90 over 88 which was perfect;

**This post was edited on Nov 9th 2022 at 2:16:34pm

NickmalyshHI,

Quick question, Ordered 100mm skis (Line blend) and 110 bindings (Griffon Marker 13), the question is should I downsize on brake width? or I'll be fine with 110 b on 100 ski's? will mount -2;

Obviously, shop who selling - told me ok, and will mount at the local REI, while they can say ok, not ok I do not know and do not want to waste time g back and forth

Google saying I'll be ok as well, however previous experience I have only 90 over 88 which was perfect;

**This post was edited on Nov 9th 2022 at 2:16:34pm

Get the 100mm brake if possible as the 110mm will overhang too much and may catch.

Greg_KGet the 100mm brake if possible as the 110mm will overhang too much and may catch.

Thnx, glad in modern world we have free shipping and returns without moving ass