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Boots in a shell fit should be no lager than 1" for a rec. skier.
Any experianced / agressive skier looking to get the most performance out of there gear , should be in a 1/2"-3/4" shell fit. I ski in an 1/8"-1/4".
Buckles help sell boots. The shell should fit your foot shape. The first clasp on the brige should be all the pressure needed to try a new boot on.
Socks make a huge difference. Heavy padding in a sock just breaks down over the course of the day. For someone who says they have a narrow heel, that means by the 6th run or so your heel starts to slide around because the thick padding in that sock has broken down expanding the volume in the heel pocket of the boot. More space, more movement, less control.
Some/most boots will need to be modified, stretched, grinded,etc, to fit well. There are only so many boot shapes out there. Sometimes you have to find the best out of the box fit, and get it worked on.
Boots are not complete without footbeds.( if your looking to be comfortable and maximize performance.)
If you are still in that 1080, you should try the heel spacers salomon has for there boots. It will help reduce volume.
Or better yet, get a fitter that can get you in a better boot.
thats one fine lookin foot
can anyone tell me what a good park boot is that isnt to pricey?
im rocken some old head boots did thier thing well but in the park there not performing as well as id like them to. are there any go park boots which would be good for the odd time i get to ryde pow out in bc
im fine with any brand but some feed back would be sick
great thread! just wanted to comment and stress the imporance of having a THIN SOCK while skiing. A thin sock will wick away all moisture, keeping your feet dry and therefore warm. The most common reason for having cold toes and feet is actually a result of wearing the wrong pair of socks.
Also wanted to comment on custom fitting boots. In order for custom fitting to actually be successful you must have the best fit possible already. If you have a boot that just isn't your fit, it never will be. The cheapest way to custom fit is to use footbeds (i.e. superfeet, downunders, Aline, etc.) The next step would be some sort of custom molded footbed.
Great thread! I'm getting ready to go through the process and I'm so glad I saw this thread before I got started! Thanks once again NS!
word
There so sick- lol
cant wait till they expand to a ski line too. Maybe they can make a ski thats good in the powda and the bumps
2 things:
whats the best way to have your boots adjusted to prevent shinbang?
and has anyone who had knockknees or whatever, ever changed their canting? cuz my knees tend to go in
1) replace your power strap with a Booster Strap and add an Eliminator tongue to the inside of your boot.
2) if you are park skiing, do not cant your boots. it will give you no benefit and will most likely be the weirdest feeling you've ever had on skis. racers have their boots canted to allow them to run a flatter ski and equalize the power in each turn.
question,
so, im not very rich with money but my brother skied and he gave me his older boots, there race boots, (atomic titanium B race 750lc) i'm not sure how old they are.. but since i dont really have experience with boots. but i guess ppl are saying the more flexible the better they are for freestyle? idk if mine are very flexible or not.
and when lydon was talkin bout the angle of the boot. "/" "I" back and forward etc. which is a better position for freestyle. i think i might change mine since its more of a raceing boot...?
another problem is that i think my boots made a bone come out of my heal so its poking out. i think from landing switch... and my dad doesnt want me to ski anymore because of it and i'll most likely have to get surgery because of my F$%@ing boots!!!
and sometimes when i land switch and land forward it pulls the bottom (floor) of the boots up and my heal goes up...
PLEASE HELP
thanks
you have two choices:
1) take the boots to a boot fitter and have him take care of your issues. i have to emphasize that this will more than likely cost you a fair bit after breaking down your problems. from my experiance, softening, uprighting and taking up volume in a boot is expensive and someone that knows what they're doing will charge you a lot.
2) buy new boots! yes i know you have a little cash issue but that is unfortunately the real solution. this may end up being cheaper than having your boots worked on. if infact you do have to get surgury to remove the bone spur on your heel, do not and I repeat DO NOT BUY BOOTS UNTILL YOU HAVE FULLY RECOVERED. if you do, you'll be in a lot of pain.
hopefully this helps. welcome to the world of ski boots!
ummmm....no
bump
yes i just bumped a sticky
^win
definately the best way to buy boots!