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Ok, I'm looking to go balls to the wall and I want advise
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I'm gonna build a box this year, but not just a regular little flat box, thats one of the few things my hill can set up. I'm going all the way and showing my local hill how its done, a double kink. I need to get some general advise on the structure for this beast, so I have a good idea where to start. Right now I'm thinking start with a wood base for the lexan, cut to length and agle, to attack supports to and save the topsheet for last. I'm wondering if I should go with plywood on the sides and make it look like a box, or just verticl supports. Weight is not a concern, I have vehicles to move it with, and its proly gonna be built on temprory skis. I'm also curious about the coping, is it necessary or not, I'd rather not if I can just use thicker lexan. Also some advise for angles would be nice to have. Its going to be huge, like 10 feet each segment, and I want relatively mellow but dont let me forget I'm on a dub kink. And how thick should the lexan be? I want it to be solid and last a long time, and make it easier to attach coping or deal with the edges however necessary. How do you cut the topsheep to the kinks, just overlap it a bit? What do you recomend for paint? How much can I expect to spend for all this, its 30 feet of grinding surface, done the right way.
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sounds tyte man i like plywood on the sides instead of just vertical supports but idk good luck man tell me when its done
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id say about 30 degrees for hte kinks
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For coping, just same thickness as the lexan and have the lexan fit into the coping?
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Whats the thinnest sheet of lexan that will last? What do I do for coping, strip steel, steel angle iron?
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you should make it low and yyou should make it 15 ft down to 10 ft flat to 25 ft down and like 2.5 feet wide that would be the best dub kink box
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30 degrees for kinks is good. I don't know if you were planning on making it all one box, but it's easier to build and to move if you make 3 seperate boxes that attach to each other. Then you can set them up fdf, or dfd, or ffd, or ddd, or whatever you like.
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Maybe I sorta covered it in the post, but it doesnt need to be easy to move, I'll proly just build it on a temporary set of skis or something. As for the d-f-d, f-d-f, etc, I'm going to make it so its an up down up when its on level ground. Then I can change the slope or jack one end up to make it a f-d-f or a d-f-d, which are the only two I have any real interest in.
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no coping I would say 3/8 or 1/2 inch. with coping you could use 1/4 inch.
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def go with plywood on the sides and coping, prolly pvc for a home rail cus it doesnt stick and is cheap, is the best idea cus even with thick lexan, the edges of the lexan combined with edges on skis and camber can mean taking some big chunks out of you sliding surface along with some nasty falls.
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dont make it too step or hard angles on the kinks
you will wont to do switch ups but it will be super hard if you make i gnarly hard :]
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