Posts: 10014
-
Karma: 8,386
First, get a shop to put a 1 degree bevel on both surfaces of the edge. Then make sure that they de-bur it too, it's really important it's smooth. Burs that come from bouncing off rocks and rails don't matter, but tuning burs do matter, you feel them.
Then, take a ruler, and detune (meaning dull with a file) the edge from a point about 5 inches back from the place where the tips bend upwards all the way to where you know the edge will not hit the snow on the tips or tails. You don't make the edge round, it will still look sharrp, you only want to make it so it isn't sharp. Take about a half a millimeter off of the corner, maybe alittle more, and detune a transition between the sharp and dull.
After that, take that file and detune underneath your feet. You DO NOT want to catch an edge on a rail. put a boot in the binding, detune from about 2 or 3 inches in front of where the toe of the boot is above the edge to 2 or 3 inches from where the heel of the boot is above the edge.
You will want to detune underfoot just a tad more than you detuned in the tip and tail.
After that, I always take the file and make one pass over the entire edge, so it isn't razor sharp.
This is how I tune a new park ski. If you don't plan on skiing park only, then you should detune under your feet only enough so the edge isn't razon sharp, and let rails take away the rest.
If you plan on center mounting, then the skis won't be good for the rest of the mountain at all anyways, so just do the full detuune I described.
It is always good to detune the tip and tail on any ski. if you are just going for a big mountain ski, then you might not detune up tp 5 or 6 inches in the tips and tails, even though I do simply because I am used to duller edges.
REMEMBER... these are just my suggestions. Don't complian if you screw up, I have done this a bunch and learned from people who have done it their whole lives.
I sent this to the guy in a PM, just thought I would share my knowledge with you all
