Mounting...

1.Rossi fsk come with no lift what so ever, so they will keep you low to the ski. This is good for jibbing - better balance on rails, ski doesn't go on edge as easy = easier landings

2. Helicoils are only used when you've ripped the screw out. It is just something to hold it back in. They won't effect how the skis ski, they just make sure you bindings stay attached to the ski.

3. There is a little arrow on the side of your boot. That is the midsole. If you were to mount them at core center on a PE that arrow would be 7.5cm up from the midsole mounting point (on the newer PE it should actually say +7.5 on the ski, the arrow should be right above that). You bindings will be mounted accordingly.

4. Look and Rossignol pivot bindings are the best. If you aren't worried about the weight look into a rossi fsk or p18 (depending on your size), or a salomon s916. These bindings are extremely realiable and durable, but will probably be over kill.

so, I would stick with the look/rossignol pivot bindings. If you want to try your luck with salomon maybe look into the s912 ti. It is pretty light. I can't seem to say in salomon bindings though. The pivot bindings are by far the safest. You can run a high din on salomons and still prerelease, but even at lower dins i've never had problems with look or rossignols. Stick with the pivots.

^ he nailed it!

i am getting look p-18s same as fks!



TIGHT PANTS WIDE STANCE FAT SKIS SKINNY BITCHES

yeah, race stock is honestly the way to go. Salomon s916 on my Igneous FFFs and Look P18 on my Seth Viscious. When jibbing I feel ok with just normal look/rossignols, but when actually pushing myself it is nice to know with the race stocks that i will only come out if I have to. I get a lot of confidence knowing that my skis are going to stay on when it is rocky and exposed.

thanks a bunch...isn't fks lighter because of lack of material on binding...its practically nothing!

"Holy shit, did you see that tweaked out pencil! That was insane, that guy really knows how to rip."

^They are a little bit lighter.

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"I like driving switch, I'm also getting better at turning unnatural"- talking about cars

I highly doubt it is lighter. The fsk/p18/s916 are all metal bindings, hence their durability, compared to the normal consumer models which are made of plastic. They are heavier for it, but worth it for safety and durability purposes.

I actually like heavier bindings when skiing anything but park. You have much better control of your tips and the way the skis is controlled.

sorry...one more thing...is there a difference in the screw pattern between the fks 12 and the fks 15.5? i heard the 12 were to close together and ripped out...can i prevent that by buying 15.5?

"Holy shit, did you see that tweaked out pencil! That was insane, that guy really knows how to rip."

i'm pretty sure the screw pattern for the fsk 120, 155, and 185 are all the same. They do tend to be fairly close together as far as hole patterns go. I have only heard of a few people ripping the fsk/p18 out due to the closeness of the screws. Those people all were skiing on skis with foam cores though.

the PE is a wood core so you should be fine. How hard are you going to be skiing anyway?

One guy who ripped the heal piece out fell above a 30 foot cliff and kind of did an accidental cork 7 to explosion down the mountain going really fast. I'm pretty sure no bindings would have stayed in his ski after that.

Same hole pattern on both bindings. You can have the helicoiuls put in when you have the ski mounted. Many Big Mountain Skiers will do this just to help prevent the binding from ripping out if they land worng while going big. Make sure when having them mounted the shop knows you want them ski center mounted.

Adam
www.untracked.com