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Another Facebook market scoop at the end of the ski season. Liberty Origin 116's 174cm with Salomon MTN AT bindings. Posted for $700 scooped for $450 after some shrewd low balling and negotiating. Can't wait to ski some deep powda in these bad boys.
Ughhhh this hurt. $240ish. My ex and I had one but after two years of using a shit cooler I finally caved and got another.
Used a shitty coleman one all last year. I was travelling full time and literally spending $10 a day on fucking ice. I'm on FB marketplace looking for one of these now thanks for the idea!
guelah_papyrus
Another Facebook market scoop at the end of the ski season. Liberty Origin 116's 174cm with Salomon MTN AT bindings. Posted for $700 scooped for $450 after some shrewd low balling and negotiating. Can't wait to ski some deep powda in these bad boys.
My buddy has Origin 116's and rides em everyday, they rip.
Ughhhh this hurt. $240ish. My ex and I had one but after two years of using a shit cooler I finally caved and got another.
BrandoComandoThose coolers are so expensive but they're so worth it. Having ice 5 days into a trip is luxurious
guelah_papyrusUsed a shitty coleman one all last year. I was travelling full time and literally spending $10 a day on fucking ice. I'm on FB marketplace looking for one of these now thanks for the idea!
I finally got a nice cooler last summer after using shitty ones that didn't keep cold at all for years and my only regret was not getting something bigger.
I've got one of these and it came with a cutting board and basket, can only fit about a 6 pack and an overnights worth of food tho
guelah_papyrusUsed a shitty coleman one all last year. I was travelling full time and literally spending $10 a day on fucking ice. I'm on FB marketplace looking for one of these now thanks for the idea!
I’m doing 8/9 days in the desert and the Colman I bought (since fighting over a cooler wasn’t worth it) just isn’t cutting it anymore. (I’m still bringing it though, haha.) I really liked my last rtic, if you can find one I think they’re worth it. This is the 65 quart one! My last one did just as good as my dad’s yeti.
No.QuarterI finally got a nice cooler last summer after using shitty ones that didn't keep cold at all for years and my only regret was not getting something bigger.
I've got one of these and it came with a cutting board and basket, can only fit about a 6 pack and an overnights worth of food tho
Figured if I'm going to run Exo casing tires I should probably know my pressures so I pinch flat less. Now I'm just annoyed at how bad I was at guessing pressure with my hand/my pump's inaccurate gauge.
They are the Kore 117 and they are roughly 6 cm back from true center. I didnt want to go that far forward but the only other option was to go backwards and that sounded like a bad time. At the previous mount point I had a lot of issues with wheeling out of big cliffs but at the new mount they handle big shit a lot better. They are def pretty big for a tele ski but im having a lot of fun on them right now :)
cydwhit
Figured if I'm going to run Exo casing tires I should probably know my pressures so I pinch flat less. Now I'm just annoyed at how bad I was at guessing pressure with my hand/my pump's inaccurate gauge.
When I finally got a decent pressure gauge I found out my floor pump was off by 10 psi. Every cyclist needs to get themselves a good gauge
Dangit, today is expensive. Grabbed two of these as well.
And some heavy-duty hinges. Van has been fine in the stock layout for ski season, but for bike season I've gotta do some redneck engineering and figure out how to build three passenger seats, a bed, and room for two bikes inside the smallest body style Transit.
cydwhit
Figured if I'm going to run Exo casing tires I should probably know my pressures so I pinch flat less. Now I'm just annoyed at how bad I was at guessing pressure with my hand/my pump's inaccurate gauge.
I've always wondered about these because, like, supposedly it's a well calibrated instrument but I don't have an easy way of checking that. Not this one in particular one but "accurate" pressure gauges in general. Does it drift? Is there a bias under certain conditions. Maybe my time as a scientist is making me overthink it?
That being said I still go with the good ol extremely qualitative squeeze method.
DrZoidbergI've always wondered about these because, like, supposedly it's a well calibrated instrument but I don't have an easy way of checking that. Not this one in particular one but "accurate" pressure gauges in general. Does it drift? Is there a bias under certain conditions. Maybe my time as a scientist is making me overthink it?
That being said I still go with the good ol extremely qualitative squeeze method.
Yeah, I have no idea how accurate they actually are. Although this one has a "zero" feature similar to a digital scale, which should help with that. From what I've read, consistent zeroing helps with sensor drift regardless of application.
At the end of the day, I don't really care about accuracy though, I need precision. Basically, as long as I'm only using this gauge, I'll determine my baseline settings with it, and then use it to make sure I'm close to them. So it doesn't matter to me if it reads 5PSI high or whatever, as long as it's consistently 5PSI high.
DominatorJacquesKick ass ride until it breaks! Take care of that puppy!
Lmao this is the truest statement about GTIs and VW in general. I had a mk5 gti, it was a blast to drive but when it broke it fucking broke. It was great for 3 years then everything went to shit on it fast.
DominatorJacquesKick ass ride until it breaks! Take care of that puppy!
I will! It’s my second VW I know the drill
CatdickBojanglesLmao this is the truest statement about GTIs and VW in general. I had a mk5 gti, it was a blast to drive but when it broke it fucking broke. It was great for 3 years then everything went to shit on it fast.
I’d say that goes for any car tbh. If you take care of it and stick to the various service intervals they will hold up pretty well (unless you have a lemon). My last VW I bought at 145,XXX and it ran to 215,XXX without anything serious breaking.
Charlie_KellyI will! It’s my second VW I know the drill
I’d say that goes for any car tbh. If you take care of it and stick to the various service intervals they will hold up pretty well (unless you have a lemon). My last VW I bought at 145,XXX and it ran to 215,XXX without anything serious breaking.
I just had issues with my CV axles and transmission. Mine was also first gen triptronic so there was for sure issues. Although when that transmission was on it was fucking on. Amazing transmission with a few issue.
CatdickBojanglesI just had issues with my CV axles and transmission. Mine was also first gen triptronic so there was for sure issues. Although when that transmission was on it was fucking on. Amazing transmission with a few issue.
DominatorJacques102 for a 1.6 NA is great! Light and fun is fun!
Here is a car I bought Oct. 1988. 340,000+ now and still running.
BTW 2.0 NA 3 valve engine.
**This post was edited on Apr 29th 2021 at 7:11:34pm
I have to admit I love that little bugger, I sold my tesla and was waiting for my cayenne and needed something to drive for a month (turned out to be 2) , a buddy who is a car dealer said he got it in on a trade and I could get it dirt cheap.
I sent it to tech inspection just to be safe, and CV boot was the only thing wrong on the thing!
I have put like 5000 miles on it for mostly short trips and such here, but recently took it skiiing for a long trip! I love it! its been door dinged and crashed into 3? times now since I got it 8 months ago now and Im keeping it! it costs less than a tire change on the cayenne! and milage is superb! its also pretty quiet and comfy! It even has less than 80k miles on it now! all services done, battery changed, brakes changed etc!
I also get 0 shit for showing up in it on my steelies with hubcaps! vs my other cars.
3 valve enignes.... dont seen thoose to much theese days I think some test LS engines had 3 or 5?
anders_aI have to admit I love that little bugger, I sold my tesla and was waiting for my cayenne and needed something to drive for a month (turned out to be 2) , a buddy who is a car dealer said he got it in on a trade and I could get it dirt cheap.
I sent it to tech inspection just to be safe, and CV boot was the only thing wrong on the thing!
I have put like 5000 miles on it for mostly short trips and such here, but recently took it skiiing for a long trip! I love it! its been door dinged and crashed into 3? times now since I got it 8 months ago now and Im keeping it! it costs less than a tire change on the cayenne! and milage is superb! its also pretty quiet and comfy! It even has less than 80k miles on it now! all services done, battery changed, brakes changed etc!
I also get 0 shit for showing up in it on my steelies with hubcaps! vs my other cars.
3 valve enignes.... dont seen thoose to much theese days I think some test LS engines had 3 or 5?
At the time the EFI and duel intake manifold was from Honda F1 technology! Also has double overhead wishbone suspenssion on all four corners!
"The Honda A20A3/A20A4 is a 2.0 l (1,955 cc, 119.3 cu-in) straight-4, four-stroke cycle gasoline engine from Honda A20A-family. The Honda A20A3 and A20A4 motors was produced from 1984 through 1989.
Both engines have SOHC (single overhead camshaft) design with 12 valves (3 per cylinder). The engines used a cast-iron cylinder block with a five bearing supported system and aluminum cylinder head. The engines are equipped with Honda PGM-FI fuel injection system.
Basically, this is the same motor but the A20A4 gives a higher power output because of not having emissions components and offered for Europen market."
1988-1989: 121 PS (89 KW; 120 HP) at 5,500 rpm of horsepower and 165 Nm (16.8 kg·m; 121.8 ft·lb) at 4,500 rpm of torque
I still can't seem to kill it! Tons of blow-by, but runs!
DominatorJacquesAt the time the EFI and duel intake manifold was from Honda F1 technology! Also has double overhead wishbone suspenssion on all four corners!
"The Honda A20A3/A20A4 is a 2.0 l (1,955 cc, 119.3 cu-in) straight-4, four-stroke cycle gasoline engine from Honda A20A-family. The Honda A20A3 and A20A4 motors was produced from 1984 through 1989.
Both engines have SOHC (single overhead camshaft) design with 12 valves (3 per cylinder). The engines used a cast-iron cylinder block with a five bearing supported system and aluminum cylinder head. The engines are equipped with Honda PGM-FI fuel injection system.
Basically, this is the same motor but the A20A4 gives a higher power output because of not having emissions components and offered for Europen market."
1988-1989: 121 PS (89 KW; 120 HP) at 5,500 rpm of horsepower and 165 Nm (16.8 kg·m; 121.8 ft·lb) at 4,500 rpm of torque
I still can't seem to kill it! Tons of blow-by, but runs!
Lol one day someone is gonna be looking for info for their car on an auto discussion board and land on page 1 of this thread.
nice! boat lifts are super rare here, probably less than 50 in entire country, only the super rich can afford them, and get them approved :p
also salt water, so stuff gets killed quite quick!
will be doing work to my boat as well this weekend, pulling all pillows and liner pillows around hull, getting ready for mounting new side hatches on tuesday! measuing out to build a new rear bench that flew overboard or something (its lost)
