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Yeah the larger drill bit is pretty esential for drilling the jig otherwise it will crack. Just be sure you remember to go back to a 3.5mm ish bit for the skis.
As for the heal piece, thats's one of the most crucial steps. You really need to clamp it to the jig to at least dot a market. Remember though, measure the distance between the rear holes and go half that amount from the center line. then just line it up through the heel piece holes. Anyway, you've seen the vid, i'm sure you'll find a way haha.
thanks guys would give karma but already 10/10 so......
For those bases, and waxing often, id suggest
(all temp box)
http://dakine.com/ski/accessories/wax/nitrous-cake-wax-large/
and/or
(basic zoom or graphite zoom)
http://www.dominatorwax.com/newzoom.html
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Subject: Official Ski/Binding Maintenance Thread
As all of us know, it is very important to know how to use/maintain your ski equipment, so my hope for this thread is to have everyone post videos or picture tutorials on how to do various forms of ski maintenance, whether it's adjusting bindings, waxing skis, dulling edges, anything, but just so you know where to look when you have basic questions about this sort of thing
I'll put 2 videos in the OP:
How to Take Apart/Bend FKS
by me
How to Wax Your Skis
by mrstskier
Next up just a few tips:
When you get home from skiing you should do 3 things:
1. take your skis inside and leave them there
2. wipe your bases and edges with a cloth or rag
3. pull your skis apart and lean them against a wall with the bases sticking up
Now it's your turn, post tips, stories, tutorials, anything relating to ski maintenance because it can greatly increase the life and performance of your gear
**DISCLAIMER**
A LOT OF THESE THINGS REQUIRE BASIC SHOP SKILL, PROPER TOOLS, AND EXPERIENCE. DO EVERYTHING AT YOUR OWN RISK AND MAKE SURE YOU ARE ABLE TO EXECUTE ALL OF THESE DIFFERENT PROCESSES. THINK TWICE BEFORE YOU RISK THE LIFE OF YOUR GEAR AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING
This goes for advice giving as well, make sure you possess knowledge of the subject you're providing advice for because it can jeopardize people's safety if you give them false tips. So either make sure you know what you're saying or put in your post that you're just kinda guessing
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
"People always ask me, 'is it worth it, getting hurt that much?' and the answer is yes, I would do it all over again, have six more season ending injuries in the next 10 years to keep doing what we get to do, there's nothing better than sliding down snow and flying through the air"
--RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
"People always ask me, 'is it worth it, getting hurt that much?' and the answer is yes, I would do it all over again, have six more season ending injuries in the next 10 years to keep doing what we get to do, there's nothing better than sliding down snow and flying through the air"
--RIP Shane, you will be missed
well today i made some progress, first off i'm just gonna say it is not as easy as it looks in aoe's video haha, it takes a lot of trial and error and jesters are especially easy bindings to do this with
i got some plexi sheets and marked the holes on them, then i clamped the toepiece on the plexi and drilled the first hole. my plan was to screw in each binding screw as i drilled so once i had 2 screws in i would no longer need to clamp it down and the holes would be very accurate. screwed the first screw in and it felt tight but i went slow, next screw put a massive crack through the plexi
i was using a 4,3 bit, it was too small, i'm gonna try a 4,7 next time
i was able to salvage the plexi but now i don't have any room for error
so on the new plexi i have the holes marked and the midsole line for the jig, my dilemma now is that the fks heelpiece won't clamp to the the jig without shooting out and sliding everywhere so i need a way to drill those holes without just winging it because pen marks aren't accurate enough. i'm stumped
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
I AM NOT A FEMALE, STOP PM'ING ME AND TRYING TO HIT ON ME!!!!
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
I AM NOT A FEMALE, STOP PM'ING ME AND TRYING TO HIT ON ME!!!!
Quoting no_steeze
from May 7 2009 7:38:07:
well today i made some progress, first off i'm just gonna say it is not as easy as it looks in aoe's video haha, it takes a lot of trial and error and jesters are especially easy bindings to do this withi got some plexi sheets and marked the holes on them, then i clamped the toepiece on the plexi and drilled the first hole. my plan was to screw in each binding screw as i drilled so once i had 2 screws in i would no longer need to clamp it down and the holes would be very accurate. screwed the first screw in and it felt tight but i went slow, next screw put a massive crack through the plexii was using a 4,3 bit, it was too small, i'm gonna try a 4,7 next timei was able to salvage the plexi but now i don't have any room for errorso on the new plexi i have the holes marked and the midsole line for the jig, my dilemma now is that the fks heelpiece won't clamp to the the jig without shooting out and sliding everywhere so i need a way to drill those holes without just winging it because pen marks aren't accurate enough. i'm stumped
Lol, I never said it was easy! Glad you're making progress tho. from May 7 2009 7:38:07:well today i made some progress, first off i'm just gonna say it is not as easy as it looks in aoe's video haha, it takes a lot of trial and error and jesters are especially easy bindings to do this withi got some plexi sheets and marked the holes on them, then i clamped the toepiece on the plexi and drilled the first hole. my plan was to screw in each binding screw as i drilled so once i had 2 screws in i would no longer need to clamp it down and the holes would be very accurate. screwed the first screw in and it felt tight but i went slow, next screw put a massive crack through the plexii was using a 4,3 bit, it was too small, i'm gonna try a 4,7 next timei was able to salvage the plexi but now i don't have any room for errorso on the new plexi i have the holes marked and the midsole line for the jig, my dilemma now is that the fks heelpiece won't clamp to the the jig without shooting out and sliding everywhere so i need a way to drill those holes without just winging it because pen marks aren't accurate enough. i'm stumped
Yeah the larger drill bit is pretty esential for drilling the jig otherwise it will crack. Just be sure you remember to go back to a 3.5mm ish bit for the skis.
As for the heal piece, thats's one of the most crucial steps. You really need to clamp it to the jig to at least dot a market. Remember though, measure the distance between the rear holes and go half that amount from the center line. then just line it up through the heel piece holes. Anyway, you've seen the vid, i'm sure you'll find a way haha.
plexi....glass....fucking....sucks
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
just finished the plexiglass jig, flawless, this was my 3rd piece of plexi, so that means i broke 2 pieces trying to make the jig
first piece of advice...buy a lot of plexiglass
next piece of advice...tape the plexiglass where you're drilling, it lowers the chances of cracking
final piece for the jig...when you're drilling, drill in very short easy bursts and don't rush anything, just be incredibly slow and careful
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
here're some pics of progress so far, sorry for shitty pics, my basement has terrible lighting
plexiglass jig
;)
jig top view, shows heel pattern
;)
jig side view clamped to skis
;)
the whole setup including most of the tools
;)
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
can i have the tahoes?
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Quoting mrstskier from May 10 2009 3:58:21:
can i have the tahoes?
i'll trade my tahoes for your entire massively overlapping quiver from May 10 2009 3:58:21:can i have the tahoes?
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
Quoting no_steeze from May 10 2009 4:37:38:
i'll trade my tahoes for your entire massively overlapping quiver
deal from May 10 2009 4:37:38:i'll trade my tahoes for your entire massively overlapping quiver
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i mounted the toepiece on my delamed bacon and everything was even and measured right, i get my 4.1mm bit tomorrow so i should be making the final holes tomorrow afternoon
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
well...the deed is done
everything is dead on to the nearest 10th of a millimeter
super stoked
;)
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
so money
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Good job, glad it worked out. The method is sound it just takes some skill and a lot of patience. Nice pics too
Quoting aoe$ from May 12 2009 7:47:32:
Good job, glad it worked out. The method is sound it just takes some skill and a lot of patience. Nice pics too
word skill and patience are a big part of it, not claiming but this definitely takes a good amount of shop skill and you need the exact tools, digital calipers especiallyGood job, glad it worked out. The method is sound it just takes some skill and a lot of patience. Nice pics too
also just a tip, measure the distances from each of the holes to the edge of your ski and write them down so you can have them exactly the same on your 2nd ski
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
RIP Shane, you will be missed
Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
Quoting DrZoidberg from May 25 2009 11:05:28:
Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
Good question. I too am interested in the answer.Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
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Quoting DrZoidberg from May 25 2009 11:05:28:
Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
when you say open/closed, do you mean like clicked in? Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
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open=not clicked in
closed=clicked in
at least thats how i've always referred to it.
closed=clicked in
at least thats how i've always referred to it.
Quoting DrZoidberg from May 26 2009 3:38:53:
open=not clicked in
closed=clicked in
at least thats how i've always referred to it.
no but like with your boot in it or just with the heels pulled up? open=not clicked in
closed=clicked in
at least thats how i've always referred to it.
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
Quoting no_steeze from May 26 2009 5:57:25:
no but like with your boot in it or just with the heels pulled up?
Heels pulled up, I believe. from May 26 2009 5:57:25:no but like with your boot in it or just with the heels pulled up?
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Whichever really, i'm trying to figure out whether it's better to store your skis with the bindings closed, whether it be from just pulling the heel up (no boot) or putting your boot in and leaving i there or just leaving them open all summer. Runonsentencesrule.
wouldn't be smart to leave the boot in because it puts tension on the binding the whole summer and eventually weakens the spring i think, as for popping it closed i could see it putting less tension on them but i haven't heard of people doing this so i'm not sure
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
i dont see that being a good thing. with the boot in, as alex said, it would put preasure on the spring. but with it just clicked up, wouldnt it put breasure on the heel piece spring? i wouldnt do it. ive never heard of anyone doing it, and i just asked my race coach and he said he wouldnt
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Quoting DrZoidberg from May 25 2009 11:05:28:
Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
closed. with the din cranked down Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.
Skiing = F-U-N - Henrik Harlaut
back when i used to race i was told the longer the wax stayed on the bases the better so the wax would have longer to set. does this hurt the base in anyway or what? and why is scrapeing right after you wax beneficial? (totally butchered beneficial i think)
715 baby!!!
Quoting ski-sw@gg@ from May 31 2009 2:38:11:
back when i used to race i was told the longer the wax stayed on the bases the better so the wax would have longer to set. does this hurt the base in anyway or what? and why is scrapeing right after you wax beneficial? (totally butchered beneficial i think)
the only time you should scrape right after waxing is if you are cleaning your bases. other then that, always let your skis sit for at least an hour in doors. and ya the longer the wax xits the better it is absorbed back when i used to race i was told the longer the wax stayed on the bases the better so the wax would have longer to set. does this hurt the base in anyway or what? and why is scrapeing right after you wax beneficial? (totally butchered beneficial i think)
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with the amount of threads i see on what waxing tools should i buy, i figured i would just post a list of imo the best. from irons to brushes to wax
Iron: for an iron, as i said in my video in the OP, dont buy the $5 iron from goodwill. you want a good iron that will have a good heating range(100º-150ºC). as you saw in my video i use a swix, swix is well know as "the best" when it comes to tuning, but for park/pow skis, i find that a toko iron is better. they are wider then swix so they take less passes on fat skis. i recommend the T8 800W CH seen here
http://www.toko.ch/en/productDetail/5547180_v/T8+800W+CH.html
Brushes: there are 2 types of brushes, hand and roto. hand brushes are the most common. you are going to want a blue nylon to use first, then a white nylon. i swear by swix for brushes. you will see rectangular and oval brushes, this is just preference, i find the rectangular give a better grip. these are the 2 brushes you will want
http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2742&MainPage_6117=6138:39847::0:6118:4:::0:0
http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2742&MainPage_6117=6138:39853::0:6144:15:::0:0
you may also want a bronze brush for cleaning, as they pull out the most wax from your bases. Roto brushes are a brush that is fitted on a mount that is put onto a drill, these are a great tool when you need to wax quickly, but most real waxers tend to stay away from them as you cant get as good of pressure with them. here is the swix list of roto tools
http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainContent_6179&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,3118&MainPage_6117=6138:39853::0:6144:15:::0:0
Wax: for wax, there is only 1 brand i trust. SWIX! for most of you, you will only need to stick with the ch waxes. but if you are racing or want extra speed in comps, think about using an LF wax. and if any of you feel the need to spend $100+ on a bar of HF, for the love of god, if you like your skis, DO NOT DRIP IT ON TO YOUR BASES, touch the par the your iron away from you skis and rub the hot end on your bases. the high floral count will destroy your bases. and after using HF you NEED to clean your bases. but for most of you who will be in comps, just toss a can of F4 into your pocket and rub it on before your run and use a waxing cork to rub that in. please see my video for the explanation of the different colors of wax
if you have any questions ever fell free to pm me, im here to help.
Iron: for an iron, as i said in my video in the OP, dont buy the $5 iron from goodwill. you want a good iron that will have a good heating range(100º-150ºC). as you saw in my video i use a swix, swix is well know as "the best" when it comes to tuning, but for park/pow skis, i find that a toko iron is better. they are wider then swix so they take less passes on fat skis. i recommend the T8 800W CH seen here
http://www.toko.ch/en/productDetail/5547180_v/T8+800W+CH.html
Brushes: there are 2 types of brushes, hand and roto. hand brushes are the most common. you are going to want a blue nylon to use first, then a white nylon. i swear by swix for brushes. you will see rectangular and oval brushes, this is just preference, i find the rectangular give a better grip. these are the 2 brushes you will want
http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2742&MainPage_6117=6138:39847::0:6118:4:::0:0
http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2742&MainPage_6117=6138:39853::0:6144:15:::0:0
you may also want a bronze brush for cleaning, as they pull out the most wax from your bases. Roto brushes are a brush that is fitted on a mount that is put onto a drill, these are a great tool when you need to wax quickly, but most real waxers tend to stay away from them as you cant get as good of pressure with them. here is the swix list of roto tools
http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainContent_6179&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,3118&MainPage_6117=6138:39853::0:6144:15:::0:0
Wax: for wax, there is only 1 brand i trust. SWIX! for most of you, you will only need to stick with the ch waxes. but if you are racing or want extra speed in comps, think about using an LF wax. and if any of you feel the need to spend $100+ on a bar of HF, for the love of god, if you like your skis, DO NOT DRIP IT ON TO YOUR BASES, touch the par the your iron away from you skis and rub the hot end on your bases. the high floral count will destroy your bases. and after using HF you NEED to clean your bases. but for most of you who will be in comps, just toss a can of F4 into your pocket and rub it on before your run and use a waxing cork to rub that in. please see my video for the explanation of the different colors of wax
if you have any questions ever fell free to pm me, im here to help.
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Quoting mrstskier from May 31 2009 9:23:53:
with the amount of threads i see on what waxing tools should i buy, i figured i would just post a list of imo the best. from irons to brushes to wax
Is Dakine any good for irons? I'm looking at getting this > http://www.amazon.com/Dakine-Super-Tune-Kit-FREE/dp/B00182EZKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1242578289&sr=1-1 < kit, seems to me like its a good value, but I figured I should ask around before buying. from May 31 2009 9:23:53:with the amount of threads i see on what waxing tools should i buy, i figured i would just post a list of imo the best. from irons to brushes to wax
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if i remember right, dakine rebrands the cheep swix iron
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Quoting YooperSteeze from May 31 2009 9:52:05:
Is Dakine any good for irons? I'm looking at getting this > http://www.amazon.com/Dakine-Super-Tune-Kit-FREE/dp/B00182EZKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1242578289&sr=1-1 < kit, seems to me like its a good value, but I figured I should ask around before buying.
that was my first iron i used for 2 seasons when i first started tuning years ago, yes, its a good iron for a good price! Is Dakine any good for irons? I'm looking at getting this > http://www.amazon.com/Dakine-Super-Tune-Kit-FREE/dp/B00182EZKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1242578289&sr=1-1 < kit, seems to me like its a good value, but I figured I should ask around before buying.
surface live life 2 review
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line anthem review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/630/
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line anthem review
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Quoting mrstskier from May 31 2009 9:54:11:
if i remember right, dakine rebrands the cheep swix iron
So that means its a good iron correct? from May 31 2009 9:54:11:if i remember right, dakine rebrands the cheep swix iron
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Quoting YooperSteeze from May 31 2009 10:10:52:
So that means its a good iron correct?
there are better for not much more So that means its a good iron correct?
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Quoting YooperSteeze from May 31 2009 10:10:52:
So that means its a good iron correct?
i use it and it works fine for me So that means its a good iron correct?
Skiing = F-U-N - Henrik Harlaut
i have a question about bending brakes on my STH16.
the brakes on my STH16 are 110mm and i need them to fit my 115mm waist on my bacons
do you bend the brakes the same way as in the OP video?
do i need to bend them all the way straight then back down? or can i get away with just angeling them a little?
the brakes on my STH16 are 110mm and i need them to fit my 115mm waist on my bacons
do you bend the brakes the same way as in the OP video?
do i need to bend them all the way straight then back down? or can i get away with just angeling them a little?
Quoting J-Wallz from Jun 10 2009 10:55:29:
i have a question about bending brakes on my STH16.
the brakes on my STH16 are 110mm and i need them to fit my 115mm waist on my bacons
do you bend the brakes the same way as in the OP video?
do i need to bend them all the way straight then back down? or can i get away with just angeling them a little?
salomon brakes actually tend to run a little wider so they should fit no problem, if not, put them in a vice and just tweak them out ever so slightly, you don't need to bend up and then down again, you just need to tweak them out i have a question about bending brakes on my STH16.
the brakes on my STH16 are 110mm and i need them to fit my 115mm waist on my bacons
do you bend the brakes the same way as in the OP video?
do i need to bend them all the way straight then back down? or can i get away with just angeling them a little?
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
Quoting no_steeze from Jun 10 2009 12:53:32:
salomon brakes actually tend to run a little wider so they should fit no problem, if not, put them in a vice and just tweak them out ever so slightly, you don't need to bend up and then down again, you just need to tweak them out
thanks just what i needed to know and unfortunantly they dont fit around my bacons so looks like just a little tweak should do it from Jun 10 2009 12:53:32:salomon brakes actually tend to run a little wider so they should fit no problem, if not, put them in a vice and just tweak them out ever so slightly, you don't need to bend up and then down again, you just need to tweak them out
you may also need tome heat to tweak them, solly breaks are pretty sturdy. just old a lighter at the bend for a min or so
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Quoting mrstskier from Jun 10 2009 3:22:24:
you may also need tome heat to tweak them, solly breaks are pretty sturdy. just old a lighter at the bend for a min or so
they're tough but super thick so the metal won't break easily, i've found i've never had to use heat for all different types of brake bending from Jun 10 2009 3:22:24:you may also need tome heat to tweak them, solly breaks are pretty sturdy. just old a lighter at the bend for a min or so
i've bent sollys from 90 to 125 and they're damn bitchy but they're sturdy. for what he's doing he just needs a vice and a pipe and he needs to tweak them the slightest amount
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
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RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
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RIP Shane, you will be missed
Quoting no_steeze from Jun 10 2009 5:03:07:
they're tough but super thick so the metal won't break easily, i've found i've never had to use heat for all different types of brake bendingi've bent sollys from 90 to 125 and they're damn bitchy but they're sturdy. for what he's doing he just needs a vice and a pipe and he needs to tweak them the slightest amount
well might try a little heat to make it easier and it wont hurt at all unless i touch it haha but ill try it without first from Jun 10 2009 5:03:07:they're tough but super thick so the metal won't break easily, i've found i've never had to use heat for all different types of brake bendingi've bent sollys from 90 to 125 and they're damn bitchy but they're sturdy. for what he's doing he just needs a vice and a pipe and he needs to tweak them the slightest amount
thanks guys would give karma but already 10/10 so......
How do you fill up old binding holes? Epoxy?
Quoting willis.$ from Jun 18 2009 4:31:44:
How do you fill up old binding holes? Epoxy?
epoxy and plugs How do you fill up old binding holes? Epoxy?
509 headwear
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Quoting mrstskier from Jun 18 2009 6:04:51:
epoxy and plugs
Do you get plugs at a hardware store or like a ski shop? Sorry but I have a slight case of the downs about ski maintenance from Jun 18 2009 6:04:51:epoxy and plugs
Quoting willis.$ from Jun 18 2009 11:22:48:
Do you get plugs at a hardware store or like a ski shop? Sorry but I have a slight case of the downs about ski maintenance
ur shop should have some Do you get plugs at a hardware store or like a ski shop? Sorry but I have a slight case of the downs about ski maintenance
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FSC Media
Line skis
Surface Skis
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Quoting mrstskier from Jun 19 2009 12:06:19:
ur shop should have some
Haha cool thanks from Jun 19 2009 12:06:19:ur shop should have some
Quoting mrstskier from Jun 19 2009 12:06:19:
ur shop should have some
if not then buy them online, i know tognar sells them from Jun 19 2009 12:06:19:ur shop should have some
and wood glue is fine for them, just something to keep the water out
put the plugs on, hammer them in with a rubber mallet, chop the tops off with a chisel, and then sand them down and wipe off the excess glue
09 185 JJ REVIEW
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
http://newschoolers.com/web/forums/readthread/thread_id/443198/
html h@x0rs
RIP Shane, you will be missed
wow...
And to think i used to just use an iron and some old crayons to wax my skis
And to think i used to just use an iron and some old crayons to wax my skis
if i ever need directions, im asking the guy with one leg, cause he knows the easiest way there
Sicker than Snickers
if your not part of the solution, there's a lot of fun to be had in prolonging the situation
SHAM-WOW!
strawberry fields forever
Sicker than Snickers
if your not part of the solution, there's a lot of fun to be had in prolonging the situation
SHAM-WOW!
strawberry fields forever
I just bought some armadas with the race bases. How am I supposed to maintain them. Somebody told me to put a base layer of wax on now to soak into the sintered bases, and put other waxes on later. What type of wax should I use?
Quoting paolo. from Jul 17 2009 5:00:10:
I just bought some armadas with the race bases. How am I supposed to maintain them. Somebody told me to put a base layer of wax on now to soak into the sintered bases, and put other waxes on later. What type of wax should I use?
Use a basic all temp wax and use it often. Dakine makes really good all temp wax, and dominator makes a big box of stuff called Zoom which is perfect everyday wax and you can get it with or without graphite depending on where you ski. Dont bother with expensive waxes or brands like swix, holmenkol, or toko unless you really want to be temperature specific and spend more money.
I just bought some armadas with the race bases. How am I supposed to maintain them. Somebody told me to put a base layer of wax on now to soak into the sintered bases, and put other waxes on later. What type of wax should I use?
For those bases, and waxing often, id suggest
(all temp box)
http://dakine.com/ski/accessories/wax/nitrous-cake-wax-large/
and/or
(basic zoom or graphite zoom)
http://www.dominatorwax.com/newzoom.html
surface live life 2 review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/1134/
line anthem review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/630/
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/1134/
line anthem review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/630/
What does graphite do?
[URL]http://sessions.searchpluswin.com/?cmd=sb-register&rb=545780[/URL]
"You guys are straight hattin on me because i hit a guy with my car? You guys are cool... " -Jib-Ninja
"You guys are straight hattin on me because i hit a guy with my car? You guys are cool... " -Jib-Ninja
Quoting YooperSteeze from Jul 17 2009 10:15:47:
What does graphite do?
Its mainly used for black bases,which are said to be faster than normal bases because they have a higher graphite content in them. Graphite helps more in wet snow cases to repel suction, and aids in repelling static cling in dry snow conditions. Graphite Zoom in the link i posted is essentially a high quality, basic hydrocarbon all temp wax, but with graphite additive to help restore and condition a black base. You can use it on any bases and it will do the same thing, but its original purpose was to keep black bases conditioned with graphite which a normal wax cant. What does graphite do?
surface live life 2 review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/1134/
line anthem review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/630/
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/1134/
line anthem review
http://newschoolers.com/web/content/reviews/action/read/id/630/
Quoting chazz. from Jul 17 2009 10:29:37:
Its mainly used for black bases,which are said to be faster than normal bases because they have a higher graphite content in them. Graphite helps more in wet snow cases to repel suction, and aids in repelling static cling in dry snow conditions. Graphite Zoom in the link i posted is essentially a high quality, basic hydrocarbon all temp wax, but with graphite additive to help restore and condition a black base. You can use it on any bases and it will do the same thing, but its original purpose was to keep black bases conditioned with graphite which a normal wax cant.
Alright man, thanks for the info, I already had you at 10/10.Its mainly used for black bases,which are said to be faster than normal bases because they have a higher graphite content in them. Graphite helps more in wet snow cases to repel suction, and aids in repelling static cling in dry snow conditions. Graphite Zoom in the link i posted is essentially a high quality, basic hydrocarbon all temp wax, but with graphite additive to help restore and condition a black base. You can use it on any bases and it will do the same thing, but its original purpose was to keep black bases conditioned with graphite which a normal wax cant.
[URL]http://sessions.searchpluswin.com/?cmd=sb-register&rb=545780[/URL]
"You guys are straight hattin on me because i hit a guy with my car? You guys are cool... " -Jib-Ninja
"You guys are straight hattin on me because i hit a guy with my car? You guys are cool... " -Jib-Ninja
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