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I just mounted a set of sth2s and the drill, toes and rear heel screws went fine. The front pair of screws on the heel with that stupid plastic raised bit won't go completely flush to the ski. As designed the plastic collapsed down but I can't turn the screw any further and it isn't totally flush. Is that normal?
It's hard to determin from your description what is going on. Did you use a jig to mount? Does the heel go onto the track? What skis are you putting them on, does it have any metal in the construction?
How/did you prep the holes after drilling? Dull bits sometimes push material outward rather then drilling a good hole and you get a little volcano thing that prevents bindings from sitting flush to the ski. Probably would need pics to help ya more.
Yes to using a jig, the heel goes on the track fine and no metal. I trimmed the material pushed up before starting the mount. Will try to get a picture up in a sec.
That's just the section under the brake, no? If so I would probably just roll with it. I haven't mounted Sths in about a year so my memory is a little foggy.
I have a brand new pair and was looking at them the other day. The raised up plastic is absolutely retarded and I am probably going to return the bindings because of it. I do not understand why they put it there. It is impossible for the bindings to sit flush. I would like to hear Solly's response to why the bindings are like this.
I wanted to make this thread too but it is so difficult to explain without actually showing the binding to people.
LemuelI have a brand new pair and was looking at them the other day. The raised up plastic is absolutely retarded and I am probably going to return the bindings because of it. I do not understand why they put it there. It is impossible for the bindings to sit flush. I would like to hear Solly's response to why the bindings are like this.
I wanted to make this thread too but it is so difficult to explain without actually showing the binding to people.
Someone who is more experienced correct me if im totally wrong, but I think those little pieces might just be there to hold the screw in place during packing? The plastic attaching them to the body of the binding is very weak and can be broken with a fingernail, which led me to believe they are supposed to be removed before mounting. I was confused when I first opened mine as well...
LemuelI have a brand new pair and was looking at them the other day. The raised up plastic is absolutely retarded and I am probably going to return the bindings because of it. I do not understand why they put it there. It is impossible for the bindings to sit flush. I would like to hear Solly's response to why the bindings are like this.
I wanted to make this thread too but it is so difficult to explain without actually showing the binding to people.
They're supposed to be like that. Basically you need to snap them free of the heel track, and then mount them as they came oriented on the heel track. They're basically a stanchion that allows the heel track to float with the flex of the ski, while holding the front of the heel track down. If you don't mount your bindings with them, the front of your heel track will be super loose, and you'll be more subject to improper release and tearout.
Twig, as far as the front of your heel track goes mine is the same way. Part of it is caused by the two plastic stanchions and how tall they are, and part of it could be caused by the curvature of the ski. Not all skis have a flat binding area that will run perfectly between the start of your heelpiece and toepiece. I template mounted my bindings, had them shop tested, and haven't had an issue to date.
It's retarded but it's right, I'm in class right now but I'll try and post pics tonight. The yellow should sit flush with the ski if I remember correctly, and it looks like that's the case in your picture. The heel and toe shouldn't move, but the plastic thats on the track in front of the heel is a little floppy if I remember correctly, I noticed that too lol. But yea the yellow is supposed to be there, don't break it lol
NinetyFourwhile holding the front of the heel track down
A correction to myself. They don't hold the front of the track down. They prevent the steel plate that's holding the front of the track down, from clamping down on the front of the track too much. And if you left the stanchions out, the front of the heel track would be super tight, and wouldn't be able to float at all, which could also lead to improper release qualities.
If you guys need I can post pictures of what I'm trying to explain.
NinetyFourA correction to myself. They don't hold the front of the track down. They prevent the steel plate that's holding the front of the track down, from clamping down on the front of the track too much. And if you left the stanchions out, the front of the heel track would be super tight, and wouldn't be able to float at all, which could also lead to improper release qualities.
If you guys need I can post pictures of what I'm trying to explain.
Actually, if you dont mind, that would really help. I am having a hard time visualizing this...
There's something wrong there- either your skis have volcanoes around the holes, you mounted them incorrectly, or there is some defect. I have mounted 4 sets of these in the past few weeks, pretty straight forward. Little plastic pieces "float" fore and aft on their slots. Assembled, their bottoms are flush with the rubber on the bottom of the track, and the metal on top is flush with the plastic around it. Also everything should be in the middle of the fore/aft movementioned range (note the rear screw holes prevent the heel track from sliding at all. The movement is just there for when the ski flexes).
IMO after installing and owning Pivot 18s, Jesters, dukes, and STH2 bindings, the STH2 have the best design and are the best engineered out of the lot hands down. Burly, light, low stack height, biggest adjustment range, rubber stomp pads, no slop, and the rear heel track is excellent- actually allows the ski to flex. Only downfall is perhaps no sliding afd.
MuggydudeThere's something wrong there- either your skis have volcanoes around the holes
This could be it to. Incase volcanoes don't make sense, it's basically excess topsheet material that has risen up around the screw hole from drilling and tapping.
S-hand, Here's pictures explaining the floating capability of the rear heel. This is the whole heel track as it would sit on the ski, and the open part would point to the front of the ski:
The top plate should end up in the middle of the expanded outline like so...:
...and when the ski flexes the distance between the front and rear mount holes changes, causing the plate to go forwards...:
...or backwards:
Those stanchions follow the same action:
None of this is possible without the stanchions. They are sliiiiightly thicker than the rest of the heel track, so when they bindings are tightened down, that metal top plate won't clamp down on the heel track, thus allowing it to float freely. The stanchions fit onto the plate like so:
Hopefully that helps! If not, I can try taking video tomorrow. As far as bindings go, I'll be on both Pivot 14's and STH2 13's this year. I really want to compare the top players, and both have their own pros that I just want for certain scenarios.
Ok this all makes sense now. I'm assuming that the tabs break loose from the track once you mount them? Mine don't seem like they would break loose that easily (by hand), I don't currently have them nearby, but I'll take a look at them later. My concerns are all cleared up.
As far as Twig's initial question, I don't think it really matters if that front brake track touches the ski or not, it's pretty much excessive material in the first place.
NinetyFourThis could be it to. Incase volcanoes don't make sense, it's basically excess topsheet material that has risen up around the screw hole from drilling and tapping.
S-hand, Here's pictures explaining the floating capability of the rear heel. This is the whole heel track as it would sit on the ski, and the open part would point to the front of the ski:
The top plate should end up in the middle of the expanded outline like so...:
...and when the ski flexes the distance between the front and rear mount holes changes, causing the plate to go forwards...:
...or backwards:
Those stanchions follow the same action:
None of this is possible without the stanchions. They are sliiiiightly thicker than the rest of the heel track, so when they bindings are tightened down, that metal top plate won't clamp down on the heel track, thus allowing it to float freely. The stanchions fit onto the plate like so:
Hopefully that helps! If not, I can try taking video tomorrow. As far as bindings go, I'll be on both Pivot 14's and STH2 13's this year. I really want to compare the top players, and both have their own pros that I just want for certain scenarios.
Wow, thanks! thats actually really cool. Im glad I saw this, otherwise I might have thrown them away
LemuelOk this all makes sense now. I'm assuming that the tabs break loose from the track once you mount them? Mine don't seem like they would break loose that easily (by hand), I don't currently have them nearby, but I'll take a look at them later. My concerns are all cleared up.
As far as Twig's initial question, I don't think it really matters if that front brake track touches the ski or not, it's pretty much excessive material in the first place.
Yeah they should. But if they're not breaking and it feels like the screw might start stripping, take it off, put it on a flat bench, then give it a good push down with your hands. Then just make sure they're in place when you install the track.
Just so everyone can see what I believe is being talked about in this thread, and correct me if I'm wrong here twig, the toe sits flush as does the heel(mostly), but the front of the heel(really in front of the brake not the heel) comes up a little bit which is normal, hope this helped guys
